Remove Solder Pipe to Bathroom Sink


Old 08-08-08, 05:57 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 59
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Remove Solder Pipe to Bathroom Sink

I am planning on replacing my vanity and vanity top. I have turned off both the hot and cold water under the sink. However the copper pipes running up to the faucet & sink have been solder onto the shutoff valves. I want to remove them so that I can lift off the sink and remove the vanity, however, I'm not sure how. The shutoff valves are in good shape and I would like to keep them, just remove the solder copper tubing.

Once the new vanity and vanity top are in place I want to use flex tubing to reconnect the faucet. Is this possible, if so how and what do I need?

Sponsored Links
Old 08-08-08, 07:12 PM
plumbingods's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Manch-vegas, New Hampshire
Posts: 2,182
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
If the shut off valves are 1/2" copper x 3/8" compression then it will be worth saving them only if they are fairly new.

Un-soldering is kind of an art.
First you need to make sure there is no water in the pipes. To do this, you will need to shut off the main valve coming into the house, then open the lowest faucet you can so the water will drain below where you are working if possible.

Disconnect the supply tubes from the valves and open them up. If you have stops coming out from the wall. you may need to dis-assemble them to remove the water in them. If they come straight up from the floor, you will be ok.

Now, the trick to un-soldering is not to overheat or under heat. If you over heat the valve it will lock up on you. Then you will need to let it cool down and try again. If you don't heat it enough, the solder wont melt and you will not get the valve off either.

Unless you have some soldering experience or you are really broke, I would recommend cutting the old stops off and replacing them with new. You can also get them in 1/2" compression x 3/8" compression so you will not even need to solder at all.

As long as you have a 3/8" compression stops, you can hook right up to the valve/stops and the faucet with a flex line. Just get it the correct length and make sure it is for a lav, not a toilet. (different size nuts)
Old 08-09-08, 03:12 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
prep the valves as stated above, get a good set of channel locks and a torch.
remove the valves with channel locks as soon as you hear the first pop during heating. It will be louder than the poping of leftover water in the line. give them a little twist as they come off.
cleaning for reuse is a pain in the h*!e.
Old 08-09-08, 03:19 PM
plumbingods's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Manch-vegas, New Hampshire
Posts: 2,182
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I would not wait too long waiting for the so called "pop" that Mrkite is talking about, because I have been doing this for 25 years and I don't know what Mrkite is taklking about.
Old 08-09-08, 03:58 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 8,629
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Or he could cut the copper tubing above the valves, so he will be happy with his nice old valves, and then use compression fittings on the supply lines, or solder them into couplings after emory sanding off any chrome off the copper.
Old 08-10-08, 08:28 AM
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 70
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
you don't have to take the valves off. remove the handles and cut the esctions with tin snips. drill a 2 inch hole in your cabinet. and buy two snap esctions, put the handles back on.
and i've never heard a pop either.
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Your question will be posted in: