Bad Aquastat L8148E Relay?????


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Old 09-15-08, 08:37 AM
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Bad Aquastat L8148E Relay?????

Here is my problem. I have a Honeywell Aquastat L8148 E relay.
I have 4 zone heating with 4 - V8043E-1012 valves. ! valve is continuously open. If I disconnect the yellow wire from what I believe goes to the aquastat relay, the valve closes.
I replaced the powerhead/front of the the 1 valve and reconnected, it still opens. So I disconnect and it closes.

I then went to my thermostat in my room, a Honeywell CT3600 and disconnected the white heat wire, still a spark down in the basement and the valve opens. I then disconnected the red power wire from the thermostat up in the room, still a spark, the valve opens. So right now I have the yellow wire from the valve not connected to the red wire going to my aquastat as my heat would be cruising through my family room and at these prices rediculous.
Before I go out and replace the aquastat relay, does anyone have any ideas?
 
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Old 09-15-08, 07:55 PM
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I have an update, more troubleshooting.
Went out and bought a voltmeter, now I am in business.
Checked voltage from the transformer to the wire housing that all zones are connected, 24.8 volts, good. The three other zones are all good, turned on the heat on each, checked the voltage between the wires and 24.8 volts each, good, when heat disabled, back to zero, good. Now back to the bad zone which I replaced the powerhead and reads 24.8 volts, but wait, the thermostat is disconnected????
I checked the voltage at the thermostat and no voltage reading, that can't be good but regardless, there is voltage down at the zone. So where is the voltage being generated and not stopped as my thermostat is not even connected and all other zones are all good. Keep in mind all was good up until a couple of days ago and nothing has changed. Anyone have any ideas before I change my aquastat????? Spending way too much time on this.
 
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Old 09-15-08, 08:34 PM
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You might want to check the thermostat wire for a short by disconnecting the thermostat and disconnecting the thermostat wires in the basement. Using an Ohmmeter, and leaving the wires apart in the basement, connect to the leads at the thermostat and make sure you have no short. It is very common to put a screw into the wire in a wall by accident and cause a short.

I am looking further into this, but try that first. a 10 minute job.
 
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Old 09-15-08, 09:12 PM
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If you disconnect all 4 wire AT THE ZONE VALVE, the zone should close, if it is working properly as it is a normally closed spring actuated valve. If it does not close with the wires disconnected, replace the head. (or there is something in the pipe holding the valve stuck open). If it does close as it should, re-connect the red wires (end switch to the boiler control), back up. There should be no change, valve should still be closed. Now reconnect the thermostat wires, If the vale opens, there is a problem within the thermostat wire or the thermostat itself.

I know you have already checked this, but I have to say it. Also make sure the zone valve is not set on manual.
 
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Old 09-15-08, 09:36 PM
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If I disconnect all wires, the valve closes. Good.
If I reconnect the red wires to all of the other red wires for the other three zones, nothing happens. If I connect 1 yellow wire to the other yellow wires that are all connected to a white wire, that I believe are connected to the transformer at 24 volts, still nothing happens. Then when I connect the last yellow wire to the red wire completing the circuit back to the thermostat, bingo, the valve opens. Not good.

This happens whether the thermostat is connected upstairs or not. Do you still think it is the wires to the thermostat?

Can the aquastat operate the other three zones without a problem but one is a problem?

Many thanks.
 
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Old 09-15-08, 10:07 PM
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Its hard to stay focused, but if I am reading you correctly, I would leave it hooked up in the basement. Go to the thermostat, Disconnect the heat wires. If the valve opens like it should, replace the t'stat. If not, you have a short in the t'stat wire someplace.
 
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Old 09-15-08, 10:48 PM
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OK, before I crash for the night, have to work early.
I did as you suggested, connected in the basement and for some strange reason, the valve did not open up, it was hot but closed. I went up to the thermostat and disconnected the white heat wire, nothing downstairs, then disconnected the heat red power wire, still nothing downstairs.
Checked voltage on the red and white heat wires and low and behold, 24 volts.
So now everything looks good, I reconnected the thermostat, set it to 80 degrees, heat came on, turned it down to 60, heat went off.
So, why would everything all of sudden be working ok, do those 8043 zone valves have a heat sensor or need to be reset and running the heat did that and now they are nice and happy. This was a good one and not sure if I am out of the woods as I still suspect this to come back on. Could it be the heat wires from the thermostat to the connections by the zone valves? Gonna sleep on this one, have a feeling it will be back tomorrow am.
Thanks again.
 
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Old 12-30-10, 05:58 PM
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Red face bad aquastat L8148e relay

Are there other aquastat beside l8148e 1265?
 
 

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