Water Leak (need to replace Sink plumbing)

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Old 09-19-08, 08:01 AM
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Water Leak (need to replace Sink plumbing)

Hello,

Water started leaking underneath my half-bath sink and I noticed that the one of the pipe connections has cracked (P-Trap), so I bought a new P-Trap set (from Menards) and I also have to replace the Sink Stopper as well. I read that I have to first caulk the sink drainage hole and before I install the new stopper? Is that correct? Do I have to add sealant to the pipes (its PVC)? Is there anything else that I should caulk/seal to prevent water leaks?


Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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Old 09-19-08, 08:13 AM
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Your P-trap set is probably all threaded connections with either separate or molded in washers. A little plumbers grease on the mating surfaces never hurts.

The "stopper" yer talking about is called a pop-up. Purchased separately or included with most new faucets. Follow the instructions on it. Some people use caulk between it and the sink, but the more common method is a bead of plumbers putty rolled to about the diameter of a #2 pencil between the top of the hole in the sink and the lip of the pop-up. There should be a rubber gasket that goes underneath.
 
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Old 09-19-08, 09:40 AM
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Hey Gunguy,

Your P-trap set is probably all threaded connections with either separate or molded in washers. A little plumbers grease on the mating surfaces never hurts.


Is sentence is true. So, if I'm already at home and don't have plumbers grease, I can go ahead with the install?

Some people use caulk between it and the sink, but the more common method is a bead of plumbers putty rolled to about the diameter of a #2 pencil between the top of the hole in the sink and the lip of the pop-up

The rep at Menards said that I didn't need putty because I have the rubber gasket and even if I used putty, I would still have to caulk. He is wrong?

Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 09-19-08, 09:56 AM
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No, you don't need the grease. Properly assembled, it should be watertight.

As to needing caulk, what does the pop-up instructions say? It's one or the other (caulk or putty), not both. If you use caulk, you'll have to wait for it to cure before using the sink. With putty, its put it together and go.

I use putty in drains, because its what I've always used. Some of the newer solid surface and granite sinks require caulk, as the putty can stain them, or so I've heard.

As to the Menards guy, maybe he knows something I don't about what you bought, but I don't think so. The putty goes in the bowl of the sink, then the popup goes in. Sounds like he thought the putty replaces the rubber gasket underneath the sink, it doesn't.

The putty (or caulk) seals the popup flange to the hole, so that when it is closed, water won't leak into the drain. The rubber gasket seals the entire sink and molded in overflow (if you have one) to the drain piping


EDIT: Well, I looked at 5 instructional sites for installing a pop-up. 2 had the same exact instructions and pictures and mentioned no putty or caulk, 1 different site mentioned no caulk or putty, and the last 2 different ones mentioned putty below the flange...lol. I guess its a toss up there. But none mentioned caulk...so go with yer gut!

I'm not a Pro, just taught by my father, that putty was the way it was done.
 

Last edited by Gunguy45; 09-19-08 at 10:07 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 09-19-08, 10:37 AM
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Well, as you find out, the instructions mentioned neither. I noticed a you-tube using putty so I went back and asked questions. I like to be 100% sure myself.

I guess I have to go with my gut that says use putty and caulk Hey, I like to be 1110% sure that it won't leak.

Can you point me to the instruction site with the pics?

Thanks again.
 
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Old 09-19-08, 10:51 AM
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http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2replaceafaucet

LOL didn't even realize it was right here. And this one doesn't mention any putty or caulk.

Again, its one or the other. How would you caulk and putty under the flange? I'm not getting how you could use both. That may cause more problems than prevent them. Small bead of caulk, wait for it to cure, or small doughnut of putty (little smaller than diameter of a #2 pencil).
 
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Old 10-23-08, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Gunguy45 View Post
Again, its one or the other. How would you caulk and putty under the flange? I'm not getting how you could use both. That may cause more problems than prevent them. Small bead of caulk, wait for it to cure, or small doughnut of putty (little smaller than diameter of a #2 pencil).
Hey GunGuy45,

Quick update on this:

The reason why putty wasn't required is that it came with a "putty-less washer" part that is supposed to take the place of putty. I ended up leaving that part out and using putty. After I inserted the pop-up into the drainage opening and cleaned off the excess putty, I added clear caulk around the perimeter, not under the flange. I hope I explained it clearly.

However, I am still getting beads of water but I haven't really dedicated time to see where its coming from. Its not a lot of water as its been 5 weeks and the water in the bucket is barely 1/4 cup. The water seems to collect around the .....umm....P-Trap connection?. I'm pretty sure that I have screwed on all parts correctly.

Would do you think? The Menard Rep said that it may be "sweating" or maybe its the connecting valve...or something. Thanks.
 
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Old 10-23-08, 11:27 AM
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I understand what you did with the drain, but I'm just not sure why...lol. Nevermind...thats just me I guess.

I can't believe sweating...this is water from the sink. Warm, cold, mixed. And it would be room temp quickly. Not like a toilet tank with a large mass of colder than room temp water.

If any beveled washers were used, the flat side should be towards the nut, so that as you tighten, it squeezes the beveled washer tight against the other pipe and the internal bevel on the threaded part. Many of the PVC parts have molded in washers.

Looking for leaks that small can be a pain. Sometimes it will work if you lay toilet paper or plain paper towels down in the area and then look for any signs that water has dropped on them. You can also wipe around all the connections and the cutoff valves with a sheet of toilet paper, even the smallest weepage will normally show up.

Also, sometimes the nut for the pop-up may need to be slightly retightened. More common with larger strainers like kitchen sinks.

Maybe someone else will have a list of common items.
 
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Old 11-23-08, 03:56 AM
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Hey,

No Updates on this issue. Its been a month and total water leak amount to 2 tablespoons at best, so I just ended up putting this off as well as replace the toilet shutoff valve (other post). I may be forced into "plumbing mode" again as I have a new thing to fix with the toilet. The toilet "rocks" when anyone sits on it. I noticed that if you sit carefully .... and place your weight at little more to the back I don't feel the "weight shift" as much. I fear that this is more of a problem with the floor not being level because I tried to add toilet shims, it didn't fit in as the putty(or caulk) is still in place. Anyway, I need to post about this later.

Thanks again.
 
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