Moving Kitchen sink on slab??
#1
09-28-00, 05:21 PM
I was hoping someone might be able to help me out with some questions I have about some kitchen remodeling we are doing. The hardest thing I am trying to accomplish is moving the sink from its current position to a position about 4 feet from where it is presently. It will have to make a bend (currently sits on North wall, moving it to a West wall). Biggest problem is that our house is on a slab. Question is: What is the least expensive / easiest option I have for moving it? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Also, I am in the DFW area and am going to be doing some gas and electrical work as well. If anyone lives in this area and is interested in giving me a quote, please let me know.
Thanks
Also, I am in the DFW area and am going to be doing some gas and electrical work as well. If anyone lives in this area and is interested in giving me a quote, please let me know.
Thanks
#2
09-28-00, 08:10 PM
The only way I know to do this without breaking the concrete would be to cut into the wall and connect to the existing sink drain riser and run the sink drain in the back of the cabinet. This horizontal extension should be sized at 2" and graded at 1/4" per foot. If the riser is only
1 1/2" you should check to see if your code allows this size of horizontal pipe to a sink. Use either a long sweep 90 degree elbow or two 45 degree elbows to make the corner. I would put a cleanout at the upper end under the sink. You will also need to connect this line to a vent. You can either
1. Run a new 1 1/2" pipe out the roof, connect closely downstream of the new trap.
2. extend the new vent up to a minimum of 6" above the countertop and run in inside the wall and reconnect to the existing vent from the old sink location (grade this back towards the new sink so it will drain any moisture).
3. This is my least favorite method but will assist your drainage without a lot of expense if your code allows it. Install an automatic air vent under the sink. connected downstream of the trap and extended up under the counter as high as possible.
I dont like these because although they allow for the drain to draw air into the line as its draining, it does not allow for backpressure relief. It also uses a diaphram which can eventually fail and allow sewer gas into the house.
As for your waterlines you could extend the lines with 3/8" soft copper from your shut off valves to the new sink area.
As always check your local code.
plumber john
1 1/2" you should check to see if your code allows this size of horizontal pipe to a sink. Use either a long sweep 90 degree elbow or two 45 degree elbows to make the corner. I would put a cleanout at the upper end under the sink. You will also need to connect this line to a vent. You can either
1. Run a new 1 1/2" pipe out the roof, connect closely downstream of the new trap.
2. extend the new vent up to a minimum of 6" above the countertop and run in inside the wall and reconnect to the existing vent from the old sink location (grade this back towards the new sink so it will drain any moisture).
3. This is my least favorite method but will assist your drainage without a lot of expense if your code allows it. Install an automatic air vent under the sink. connected downstream of the trap and extended up under the counter as high as possible.
I dont like these because although they allow for the drain to draw air into the line as its draining, it does not allow for backpressure relief. It also uses a diaphram which can eventually fail and allow sewer gas into the house.
As for your waterlines you could extend the lines with 3/8" soft copper from your shut off valves to the new sink area.
As always check your local code.
plumber john
