well tank vibration

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Old 02-01-09, 03:18 PM
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well tank vibration

im a newcomer to dyi.com, first time user. within last 3 wks i self installed a replacement well water holding tank, 22 gal fiberglass, diaphram type. house is bilevel bilt 1978-79, we are only owners of house since new, new tank is 3rd one since, first fiberglass if that means anything to problem now having. do not recall having same problem when put in first replacement (steel w/bladder type install by prof plumber) back in early 90's. after this recent install, all worked fine quietly, then about day or so later noticed that after tank fills & pump shuts off, pipes vibrate with a knocking sound (like hitting a wall stud), 3-4 rapid succession then all is quiet until next refill shut off. does this sound like an airpocket trapped in line somewhere that can be corrected by draining down all cold water from lower & upper level piping, including flushing all 3 toilets & not allowing to refill, then turning-on cold water supply allowing to run thru all faucets while all supply lines are refilled? any suggestions to silence before i have to call-in a prof plumber to correct it?
 
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Old 02-01-09, 09:17 PM
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When the new tank was installed. Was it in the same place as the old one?
Is the pressure switch in the same place as the old one in relation to the tank.

If the switch is too far from the tank, that will cause the switch to (bounce) when it cuts off.


Travis
 
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Old 02-02-09, 04:55 AM
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WWD, just need to glean information on this subject in tandem with the OP. My cabin had no pressure tank, so I installed one inside in a closet on a shelf over the water heater. The pressure switch is at the well pump, some 120 feet away. Are you saying it would be better to move the pressure switch to the tank location? I have noticed no appreciable pressure and the tank will tip as if it had no water in it with the system pressurized. Maybe this will help the OP, too.
 
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Old 02-02-09, 06:29 PM
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If the pressure switch is as close as ten feet, it can (bounce) when it cuts off.
I don't like the switch more than 3 or 4 feet away from the tank.
There are things that can be placed in the bottom of the switch, but they don't work that well.
A surge chamber can be place in line close to the switch, but sometimes it's easier to move the switch.

The cushion of air or bladder in the tank, acts like a spring.
The further away the switch is from the tank, the more it will bounce.
It will cause the pump to ware out, or burn up quick, and make the electric bill go up as well.



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Old 02-02-09, 06:38 PM
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Thanks, I have my weekend chore set up, now.
 
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Old 02-02-09, 07:43 PM
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WWD the tank & press switch are in same location for all 3 installs, havent moved anything. only change made is going to fiberglass tank from steel.
 
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Old 02-02-09, 08:32 PM
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Has anything been changed along with the tank?
New check valve?
New pressure switch?
Pipes in a different spot to accommodate the new tank?

It almost sounds like the sound you may hear when the check valve slams shut after the pump stops.
But you should only hear one slam, not three or four.

Unless, you only hear one bang from the pump stopping, and the other bangs, may be the pipes hitting the wall.



Travis
 
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