Basement Shower Drain Install

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Old 08-03-09, 11:27 AM
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Question Basement Shower Drain Install

I am working on a basement bathroom and have had all the drains installed by a pro. The shower drain at present is a 2 inch ABS pipe sticking directly out of the cement basement floor. My plan is to apply a mortor base and tile the shower.

All the drains I have seen have a neck at the base that seem too long and require the drain to be raised a fair amount. They would be OK for a main level installation as you would have access to the pipes from below.

Is there a drain that I can cut the pipe as close to the concrete as possible to allow for the connection. I don't want to raise the height of the base too much. I was looking at the Schluter system but again the neck seems too long. Will I have to chip away some concrete to allow for this connection?

Your thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
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Old 08-03-09, 03:25 PM
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shower Drain

It dosen't matter what kind of shower base you use, most shower drains go below the finished floor level, thats why they are roughed-in before the shower is installed. The only thing you can do is to rough-in your drain exactly where it needs to be before you build your shower; that means you will have to break some concrete, sorry.
 
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Old 08-04-09, 07:36 PM
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Good Question!

If the concrete was poured all the way against the pipe (not common for a built shower) then you have an issue. How much pipe is above the finished grade? A 2" glue on shower drain with clamping ring needs 3/4" of pipe above grade. A standard shower drain is a three piece fitting. The drain body, the clamping ring and the strainer. I understand you wanted a mortar base. Is the shower floor area already sloped 1/4" per foot to the drain? If its flat then this is your route. Glue the drain body onto the drain pipe as close to the slab as you can get it. that will put the flange of the body about 2 1/2" above the slab. You will use a portand base here. Take a level and mark a line on each wall even with the top of the flange. Then figure your slope. 1/4" per foot, If a wall is three foot from the edge of the drain then you will mark a line 3/4" above your level line you marked first. Lay your slope out all around the shower. Use a portland mix here not mortor. Its called a dry pack, not real wet. should form a ball in your hand without a lot of moisture. Google portand dry pack for proper ratio of portland sand mix. Grade the portland from your top line to the edge of the flange. I install 30 lb. felt on top of my portland when its set up. Install your shower pan. (cloroloy pvc material) NOW your ready for your mortor mix. Same thing, Install your strainer and keep it at least 1 1/2" above the flange. From the top of the strainer figure your 1/4" per foot and lay it out on the walls. Keeping in mind, what ever the thickness of your tile, subtract that from your mark on the wall. You want the top of your tile even with the top of the strainer. One more thing a lot seem to over look, The clamping ring for the shower pan has little holes in it. These are weep holes. If water makes it to the pan it will travel on the sloped grade to these holes and go down the drain. Put a hand full of rubber tile spacers or gravel on top of these hole so the mortar will not seal them off. I know this was long and drawn out but I have seen to many shower pans installed flat (no slope) that the standing water will produce fungus and mold that will eat the pvc pan El Pronto. Good luck with your project. Sorry about the ramble!
 
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Old 08-14-09, 05:50 PM
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Hi Wrmiii,

Thanks for the detailed info. I appreciate it.
 
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