Adjusting pressure reducing valve

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  #1  
Old 12-06-09, 01:30 PM
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Adjusting pressure reducing valve

I just purchased a house and the static water pressure is about 125 psi... Just a LITTLE high... The inspector told us we could change it easily from the PRV under the house.

We loosened the bolt and turned the screw counterclockwise.... With NO result. I read a 3-year-old thread on here and you were asking for the static water pressure and the running water pressure.

What am I supposed to be looking for here?

With ALL fixtures off, the pressure is reading 125 psi
With water running, it's approx 35 psi with fixtures and toilet. When toilet shut off, and faucets still running, it went to 60-65 psi. Then again, with all water turned off, it rose again to 125 psi.

Also, I don't know if it's important, but when a faucet is first turned on, there is a gush of water before it settles into a normal flow. I assume this has to do with the high pressure...?

Can you please guide me here?
 

Last edited by chemmy; 12-06-09 at 01:32 PM. Reason: add more info
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Old 12-06-09, 02:42 PM
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Your pressure reducing valve (PRV) is kaput, not working. It may be possible to rebuild it but the rebuild kit is often 2/3 the price of a whole new assembly and there is no guarantee that it will work any better after the rebuild. Best bet is to replace it.
 
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Old 12-07-09, 01:32 PM
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Thanks furd. I am tempted to rebuild it but it seems best to just go new.

I just got a quote for $175 estimated for labor & parts to replace it. Hopefully that's in line as I'm still waiting on others to come in.

Is it a project that a DIYer can handle? I mean plumbing seems really difficult... until you really look at it and read the instructions... I do know that the main house shut-off is just behind the PRV.



The $950 installation fee for my water heater seemed out of range.
 
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Old 12-07-09, 02:33 PM
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Pressure

General question: Does an electric water heater affect static pressure in a home water supply system? My pressure creeps up when the water heater is heating water, but will stay around 50 psi when the power to the water heater is turned off.
 
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Old 12-07-09, 03:35 PM
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chemmy, I'm a painter who dislikes doing plumbing work but since most plumbers charge more than a painter makes....... I've installed several PVRs for the kids [had to replace one, others new install] and it's not all that hard. The ones I worked on were all pvc or cpvc so no soldering skills were needed. Basically you cut off the water supply, drain the pipes, remove the old PRV and install the new. Don't forget to check for leaks.
 
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Old 12-08-09, 12:18 AM
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Chemmy, it really depends upon how the present PRV is installed, the type of pipe, if you can get an exact replacement PRV and your own tool box and familiarity with plumbing tools. I would state the $175 for a plumber to make the replacement is a very good price. A couple of years ago a member in Atlanta had a PRV replaced and the cost was $600 if I remember correctly.


Wirepuller, any water heater can cause the pressure in a house to rise if there is a check valve of some sort preventing the water from moving back towards the street connection. Do you have a properly fitted and adjusted expansion tank on the cold water feed to the water heater? If not you should install one.
 
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Old 12-08-09, 05:25 AM
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Expansion Tank

Thanks, Furd. I guess I need to start a new thread about how to install the expansion tank?
 
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