Toilet fill pipe twisted, broken


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Old 02-01-10, 09:45 AM
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Toilet fill pipe twisted, broken

I have 1967 Crane toilets. I thought I would replace a leaky shutoff valve and I bought a new one - a ball valve that looked a lot like the one I saw connected to the chrome covered brass fill pipe.

Unfortunately I twisted the pipe coming out of the wall, damaging it - I think the pipe and shutoff valve are all one piece?

I need to either cut and re-thread the pipe, or replace the pipe from in the wall with a new threaded pipe, then add a new shutoff vavle and fill hose and fill valve.

But the pipe coming out of the wall goes through a ""baseboard" tile with a nice hole cut in it,, so I want to preserve that tile.

What are my options? Can I cut clean and rethread the pipe myself or does it need to be done from the joint in the wall, requiring tile removal, etc.
 
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Old 02-01-10, 01:24 PM
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If the pipe is threaded, then the valve & the pipe weren't all one piece. It just didn't spin when you tried to remove it. If you think you have enough room to re-thread it, try that first.

If there is a closet on the other side of the wall, you can open that wall to avoid touching the tile.
 
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Old 02-01-10, 02:17 PM
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The pipe is between tub and toilet. Don't know if it is threaded yet since the valve seems to be welded on Haven't gottten a good look at it in good light since I was rushing and it is in a really awkward space.

Was there such a thing as a 1 piece pipe and valve back then? I unscrewed the valve handle, and it seems to be a "valve stem". Of course rubber gasket and o-ring are corroded.

HD and Ls do not sell anything replacement that is in my house, from kitchen fixtures and appliances to plumbing parts My stove and cooktop are Frigidare (no replacement parts for me) and cooktop cutout is 31". I had to order my new ceramic cooktop the internet.

I was able to get in and grab a few pictures of the disaster - will post them later this evening.
 
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Old 02-01-10, 04:22 PM
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OK here is the picture that tells the story

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1265070027

On the left is the "valve stem" then the new valve I was going to use, then the twisted pipe. Help!
 
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Old 02-01-10, 06:03 PM
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I wouldn't try to save that pipe at all. You didn't answer one of my questions. What's behind that wall? Is there a closet, another room, outer space...?

In other words, instead of breaking the tile, can you reach it from the other side?
 
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Old 02-01-10, 06:36 PM
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The toilet is below a window, that wall is an outer wall on the second floor!

So go into the wall and replace that pipe? That will mean a plumber for me. What an expensive mess. How many hours of work do you think? Should I have him just fix the pipe or do everything (shutoff valve, hose, fill valve, etc.)
 
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Old 02-01-10, 07:24 PM
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If you are going to call a plumber, have him do all the work, although he won't patch the wall.

You might want to open the wall yourself. Maybe you'll be able to handle the job. The next time you have a leak in a valve like that, tighten the packing nut first. Many times, that stops it.
 
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Old 02-02-10, 07:16 AM
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Yeah I guess I will open the wall - should I use one of those new vibrating tools that cuts grout, etc?

What is the packing nut? You say "a valve like that", is there a name for this type of valve, which is different than the ones that seem to be used these days?
 
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Old 02-02-10, 07:57 AM
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I'm not familiar with a vibrating tool to cut grout. The packing nut is the nut on the stem. If you are going to do home repairs, get a few books from Home Depot or read online if you don't want to spend any money.
 
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Old 02-02-10, 12:42 PM
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This valve was completely corroded - there is no tightening to it - the rubber gaskets/o-rings perhaps could have been replaced and the valve rebuilt.

The vibrating tool you may know as an oscilating tool such as a Fein Multimaster, Bosch also makes one and others also. Here is a comparison shootout

Oscillating Multi-Tool Shootout Comparison —Professional tool reviews for the average Joe
 
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Old 02-02-10, 08:39 PM
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Fortunately I was able to cut the tube behind the damage. (I had to work from inside the tub)

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1265170732

The old one was soldered on apparently, I thought it would screw off I got a tube cutter from the HD and then took the tube (1/2") for sizing to HD and got a compression fitting multi turn valve , which went onto the remainder of the tube. I will use a braided flexible hose to attach to a new Korky flush valve.
 
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Old 02-03-10, 06:39 AM
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Good work. You solved the problem & saved yourself some money.
 
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Old 02-06-10, 08:49 AM
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Thanks! I figure I saved at least $200 on this toilet rebuild. I have 2 more 50 year-old toilets to go, now I can do them in about 20 minutes each! With old toilets especially, there is a need to clean the surfaces on the pipe and toilet tank where new fixtures will go.

Since the shutoff valves are soldered on, and there is enough pipe exposed, I will cut them off also, so need for any pipe soldering, just one cut.

I am replacing the "flexible nickle plated brass" tubing with the braided hoses, the shorter lengths will work in my situation. They screw on to both the modern compression fitting multi-turn valves and to the modern flush/fill valves.

I am using the K---- brand replacement fill valves sold at L's. Recommended by my brother-in-law, and they are very quiet.
 
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Old 02-06-10, 01:40 PM
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It's always good to safe money but don't forget, compression fittings can go bad. If you go away for a few days, shut the water in the house.
 
 

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