Need help with leak on shark bite type fitting
#1
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Need help with leak on shark bite type fitting
OK I am attaching a picture of a fitting I have that joins cpvc and copper, 1/2",right above my prv on the main line coming into the house. A plumber actually installed one just like the one in the picture that lasted for around 6 mos....then it started slowly leaking. I would notice a little water around the part that is circled in black at the top. Nothing that even hit the floor, but still enough to worry. I replaced the fitting with an identical one that is pictured....and it was dry for around 3-4 months. Noticed the other day it's leaking now. I would like to know if there are any tips or tricks to getting these to seat properly or why mine is failing so quickly. Lastly, is there a safer alternative? I know the water pressure is around 70psi due to a gauge I installed below this section.
oh yea don't worry about the "nut" at the bottom of the pic...that was from the old fitting that got stuck on there and now serves no purpose
Thank you!
oh yea don't worry about the "nut" at the bottom of the pic...that was from the old fitting that got stuck on there and now serves no purpose
Thank you!

#2
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I've never used one of these fittings before, so I really can't say... other than to be certain it's tight (which I'm sure you've already done).
Maybe the copper pipe is a bit out of round and is preventing a tight seal.
Anyway, two suggestions:
You said this is right above the PRV. Can the PVC pipe be removed from the PRV and replaced by a single soldered copper pipe?
Other option would be a SharkBite fitting. These simply push on, and I've found them to be quite reliable. If the copper pipe is a bit out of round, you may want/need to cut it back and either use a longer fitting or extend the PVC pipe to meet it.
Maybe the copper pipe is a bit out of round and is preventing a tight seal.
Anyway, two suggestions:
You said this is right above the PRV. Can the PVC pipe be removed from the PRV and replaced by a single soldered copper pipe?
Other option would be a SharkBite fitting. These simply push on, and I've found them to be quite reliable. If the copper pipe is a bit out of round, you may want/need to cut it back and either use a longer fitting or extend the PVC pipe to meet it.
#3
What you have is a type of shark bite fitting, but it ain't a Shark Bite. The plastic ones may not be suitable for use in that situation. Buy a brass one, clean the paint off the upper pipe with sandpaper, then push the sharkbite on both pipes.
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okay, I will try to find a brass one today. I have trouble figuring out how much space to leave in between the two pipes with these types of fittings...any rule of thumb? Should they almost be flush once cut? Also in order to get the darned thing out you have to bend the pipe (cpvc) so much i'm always afraid it'll snap
I could run brass out of the prv and that would actually be optimal, but its a little more complicated than I am comfortable with atm...I would like to just get a fitting that works for now and down the road I want to replumb the house anyway.
I could run brass out of the prv and that would actually be optimal, but its a little more complicated than I am comfortable with atm...I would like to just get a fitting that works for now and down the road I want to replumb the house anyway.
#5
If there are any clamps above or below the pipe where you are working, unscrew them so the pipes are more flexible. Then you can move them from side to side as you fit the sharkbite to them. I would leave about 1/2" or so gap between the pipes so the sharkbite will fit snugly. Then reattach your clamps.
#6
Just wondering, why there is a PRV on the water entry? Do some States pump water at high pressures thus requiring a PRV at each house?
Never seen a PRV in Canada for domestic water use
Never seen a PRV in Canada for domestic water use
#7
i would replace the fitting with a Shark Bite. The instructions with the fitting will tell you how much penetration is required to get a reliable seal. You may have to extend either the copper or the CPVC pipe a bit. If you install the SharkBite correctly you won't have to worry about another leak.
I would make sure that both the copper and the CPVC pipes are securely supported so that there is no pipe movement.
I would make sure that both the copper and the CPVC pipes are securely supported so that there is no pipe movement.
#8
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First of all what you have is not "similar" to a Shark Bite fitting, it is similar to a Dresser Coupling. I don't think it is a genuine Dresser.
Secondly, that fitting seals by compressing a rubber ring between the body of the fitting and the pipe. It requires the pipe to be clean and round. It also requires that the proper size of coupling be used and often they can only be used with the same material of pipe on either end; in other words you usually cannot have metal pipe on one end and plastic on the other.
Third, the pipes MUST be braced on either side of the coupling to prevent movement after the coupling is installed. Movement will almost always result in leaks.
Fourth, it often takes quite a bit of torque on the coupling nuts to seal against the pipe. Hand tight rarely does it.
I've never seen a municipal system that relied on pumps to get the water to the users. That is why they use tall water towers, so the flow is by gravity. If you live in a hilly area and you are at the bottom of the hill then you WILL have higher water pressure than will a person living higher on the hill.
Secondly, that fitting seals by compressing a rubber ring between the body of the fitting and the pipe. It requires the pipe to be clean and round. It also requires that the proper size of coupling be used and often they can only be used with the same material of pipe on either end; in other words you usually cannot have metal pipe on one end and plastic on the other.
Third, the pipes MUST be braced on either side of the coupling to prevent movement after the coupling is installed. Movement will almost always result in leaks.
Fourth, it often takes quite a bit of torque on the coupling nuts to seal against the pipe. Hand tight rarely does it.
kolias
Just wondering, why there is a PRV on the water entry? Do some States pump water at high pressures thus requiring a PRV at each house?
Never seen a PRV in Canada for domestic water use
Just wondering, why there is a PRV on the water entry? Do some States pump water at high pressures thus requiring a PRV at each house?
Never seen a PRV in Canada for domestic water use
#9
Kolias, yeah, PRV's are common. It is not uncommon for municipalities to run 150 psi to reach far out customers. That would, of course, blow out near customers. Also , furd, here in the mountains, the water tank/tower may be slightly below some houses built close to ridges, and they have to pump it up to them. Not an ideal situation, but a PRV is a life saver when the pump fluctuates.
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hey thanks for all of the replies....got into it yesterday, and unfortunately I had too much space in between the pipes for the sharkbite fitting. So I re-seated theother one. I am thinking bracing is my problem since it works for a while and then all of a sudden starts leaking. I will investigate what I need to brace the pipe to the wall and install that in hopes of minimizing vibration and movement.
Eventually I am going to need to cut down on the cpvc, and re-install it to the proper distance...preferably on a day where there isn't so much darn football on
thanks to all and I will update after I do more work.
edit**any advice on braces for the pipe? cheapest viable option?
Eventually I am going to need to cut down on the cpvc, and re-install it to the proper distance...preferably on a day where there isn't so much darn football on

edit**any advice on braces for the pipe? cheapest viable option?
#13
Got a prv at our house, outside against the foundation...and probably throughout the municipallities..
.
but yes.. the plactic clamps with do fine...
on to the games(s)
.
but yes.. the plactic clamps with do fine...
on to the games(s)