How to Configure Bypass System for New Water Softener


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Old 11-13-10, 06:47 AM
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How to Configure Bypass System for New Water Softener

I'm installing a bypass piping system for a water softener ('H' pattern with shutoffs for input, output, and a bypass between the two). I thought this would be straightforward, as there are old feedlines from the previous owners old system. However, after dropping $130 on Sharkbite connections (and more to come) I was having second thoughts.

I was tempted to use CPVC, but this the 3/4" piping has a smaller I.D. than copper. Also, parts were limited in the 1" size and this is my main house line, so I prefer copper.

I was also tempted to sweat in the lines, which would be much cheaper. However, I'm new to this and a main feed line is not the time to start practicing. I've also never used Sharkbite connections, but I've heard good things about them.

The problem I just noticed is that the water softener input lines are 1" higher than my feed lines. I only have limited space.

What's the best way to connect the two? Bend the copper or flexible lines? Scrap the copper and use something else? Any other ideas?
 
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Old 11-13-10, 07:02 AM
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I don't think you will notice any difference in the softener if you use cpvc. It is certainly easier to configure and work with than copper. As you have seen, sharkbites are fantastic, but at a cost. You can probably use cpvc at 1/4 the cost you have in it now.
 
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Old 11-13-10, 05:57 PM
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Yes, you are right about the CPVC. I ended up using the Sharkbite connectors as I couldn't find the correct CPVC fittings. However, the I.D. of the Sharkbite connectors reduces down to ~5/8", so CPVC would have worked just fine.
 
 

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