Can this be turned into a drain?
#1
12-01-10, 09:11 PM
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Can this be turned into a drain?
This has bugged me for a long time - the water heater and furnace is in a furnace closet that doesn't have a drain. While opening up the wall to fix up the room to install a new water heater, I noticed what appears to be a cleanout and the vent pipe for the shower basin in the bathroom right next to this closet. Can I somehow tap into this cleanout or vent pipe to create a drain here? Then I could run the pressure relief valve and condensate lines into the drain. Right the pressure relief valve goes nowhere other than the concrete floor and I have a condensate pump.
#2
12-01-10, 09:26 PM
Super Moderator
1. It depends on the codes in your area.
2. You will most likely need to put a trap there if code implys.
3. you would want a backflow valve there if your sewer ever backs up you will have waste in your basement without this item.
Mike
2. You will most likely need to put a trap there if code implys.
3. you would want a backflow valve there if your sewer ever backs up you will have waste in your basement without this item.
Mike
#3
12-01-10, 09:31 PM
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Would you recommend cutting the vent pipe and putting a T above there and a trap, or rather extending that angled cleanout somehow, and a trap?
#4
12-02-10, 10:42 AM
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I would not cut. I would unscrew the clean out and screw in a 3 or 4 inch male adapter.( what ever size that is) Then get a 22 degree street elbow and that will bring you to level. Then backflow valve, trap, then riser.
Mike NJ
Mike NJ
#5
12-02-10, 03:52 PM
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[QUOTE=flyingpolarbear;1795575]This has bugged me for a long time - the water heater and furnace is in a furnace closet that doesn't have a drain. While opening up the wall to fix up the room to install a new water heater, I noticed what appears to be a cleanout and the vent pipe for the shower basin in the bathroom right next to this closet.I somehow tap into this cleanout or vent pipe to create a drain here? Can Then I could run the pressure relief valve and condensate lines into the drain. Right the pressure relief valve goes nowhere other than the concrete floor and I have a condensate pump.
>>>somehow tap into this cleanout or vent pipe to create a drain here?>>Then I could run the pressure relief valve and condensate lines into the drain.
>>>somehow tap into this cleanout or vent pipe to create a drain here?>>Then I could run the pressure relief valve and condensate lines into the drain.
#7
12-03-10, 01:26 AM
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Thanks for all the tips, it sounds like I have some possibilities for the drain. Now, the only thing I'm not sure about is if I have to do anything with the pressure relief valve or just leave it as-is without a pipe connected to it (since this furnace closet is inside the house). A friend suggested attaching a pipe to the pressure relief valve and leaving it exposed 6 inches from the ground (which would flood the closet I suppose, if it was to start spraying).
#8
12-03-10, 10:02 AM
Super Moderator
You could pipe the relief valve into your new drain. Just make sure you pitch slightly from relief valve to drain. Run to drain like below and you can stick it in the pipe alittle. Or put a bell coupling on top.
Correct:
http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0WTb_u0If...tuff/tpr-2.jpg
Wrong and I have seen this many times:
http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0WTb_1DIv...ed-uphill1.jpg
Mike NJ
Correct:
http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0WTb_u0If...tuff/tpr-2.jpg
Wrong and I have seen this many times:
http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0WTb_1DIv...ed-uphill1.jpg
Mike NJ
#9
12-03-10, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by flyingpolarbear
Thanks for all the tips, it sounds like I have some possibilities for the drain. Now, the only thing I'm not sure about is if I have to do anything with the pressure relief valve or just leave it as-is without a pipe connected to it (since this furnace closet is inside the house). A friend suggested attaching a pipe to the pressure relief valve and leaving it exposed 6 inches from the ground (which would flood the closet I suppose, if it was to start spraying).
#10
12-03-10, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by shacko
You can run it to a drain thru a air gap, the idea is to be able to see there's a problem if it goes off, you CAN'T run it into a fixture due to the chance of someone being burned
#11
12-03-10, 03:14 PM
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This is what we use. After you trap put this on your riser. Of course the pic is upside down. This allows enough space to look in to see if anything is dripping. Thats an air gap. The pipe should go into the larger end below the lip. The inspector can then see the end of the pipe. If your doing 2" then a 2"x3" is good.
Mike NJ
Mike NJ
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12-05-10, 03:11 AM
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#13
12-05-10, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 2ndprimetime
For it to meet International code you will need to have a air gap and a trap primer
While searching the web on trap primers, I found a product called Trap Guard that uses a rubber flap. It seems simple and I wonder if that thing actually works long-term.
