What constitutes as a plumbing vent?

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  #1  
Old 01-19-11, 01:07 PM
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What constitutes as a plumbing vent?

Alright, did a search on the forums and can't find the answer so I thought I'd start a new thread. I am new to this forum, so Hi to everyone. I've browsed through before registering and seems like there are a lot of great and knowledgeable people here. Now to my question.
I am redoing a bathroom and to say the least, this has become a huge challenge. The last owner watched too many shows on DIY network and seemed to have missed a few key steps when trying to attempt these jobs. Anyways, I expanded my shower to 60 x 36 and am using the Schluter shower kit, center drain. Right now, the drain is off center and has to be moved. The way it sits now, the drain is level, no pitch. It is tee'd off from a vent and drain. What I want to do is move the drain to the middle of the drain run. So basically cut the tee out, and use a 90*, then use a wye and tie that into the middle of the drain where it goes to the main stack. My question is, can you do this and does this still constitute as a vent? I tried to upload a picture but cant find the attachment button. Looked on the FAQ section and tried to follow the steps but can't find the attachment button anywhere. I drew out the crude diagram on paint with a description.
If anyone can help answer, that would be great. As soon as I find out how to post pictures, I will upload the progress. Putting in the Moen iODigital shower system and Schluter Ditra, Kerdi, and Schluter finishing strips. I am excited!
 
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Old 01-19-11, 01:51 PM
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I dont think you can do it. Its hard to visualize what you are describing. Sounds like you want to cut a tee out of the stack, 90, y, then Y to sgower and Y back to stack.

Post pictures to a web imaging site like photobucket. Then insert URL.

Mike
 
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Old 01-19-11, 02:00 PM
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Pictures by Duramax66l - Photobucket
Hope this helps.
 

Last edited by Duramax66L; 01-19-11 at 02:03 PM. Reason: Picture
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Old 01-19-11, 02:18 PM
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I understand the top picture. looks like drain center, trap, and arm to stack. The bottom picture I dont understand. Looks like two drains and a trap that hook together.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-19-11, 02:45 PM
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Hey Mike,
Yeah, I'm sorry for the picture. It looks much better on grid paper than on paint. Let me try to explain. The top picture shows how the drain is currently set up. There used to be a corner shower. So the drain is set to the right of the picture. From the drain, there is a trap, a line that ties into the vent(That small line that goes up) and the drain that goes down to the basement(The long black horizontal line and drains to the left. How I want to do it, looking at the second picture is just put a 90 in where the tee used to be, then put in a wye in the middle of that Long horizontal line. There I will glue in my arm, trap, and then center the drain. What I want to know is, does that set up still constitute as a vent or should I just keep the same setup as the first picture, but just put in a new arm to that tee where it ties into the vent and the drain line? Hope that explanation helps a little more.
 
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Old 01-19-11, 02:58 PM
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Here is a little better picture. Hopefully it is a little clearer. Drain2.png picture by Duramax66l - Photobucket
 
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Old 01-19-11, 02:59 PM
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Leave the tee in the vent/stack. Cut the horizontal arm close to where the shower drain will be and just 22,45, or 90 to center the drain. Plus when you get close to where you want to be with the drain you can use the new trap as a swing joint to be dead on if you know what I mean.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-19-11, 03:06 PM
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I see by the pic a better idea of what your doing. This is fine if you code allows. You can only be so far from the vent. What is the distance from wye to vent? What is the current distance? Why such a long arm, cant you get the new dran position to tie right in closer.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-19-11, 03:16 PM
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Hey Mike,
Alright, new diagram. Top picture shows current set up and bottom picture explains what we talked about. I don;t need the arm cut back, I need to extend it out a little bit. I think code says 6 feet but not sure. Its just in my head, putting in a wye in the middle of the drain line just seems odd. The only reason i thought of that first was because there is little clearance in the original set up. Currently there is no pitch in the arm, it is level. I thought by moving the drain and connecting it with a wye, it would be easier to put a pitch in the drain. Would you concur or stink with the original set up, just make the arm longer?
Drain3.png picture by Duramax66l - Photobucket
 

Last edited by Duramax66L; 01-19-11 at 03:18 PM. Reason: Insert picture
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Old 01-19-11, 03:30 PM
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1) The shower arm is currently 2" pipe?
2)What size is the long length of horizontal drain pipe and what else ties into it?
3) The lower pic is what I would probably do. Alot easier. What type of pipe and why cant you get pitch?

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-19-11, 03:38 PM
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1) Shower drain and arm is 2 " ABS
2) Long length of horizontal drain pipe is 2" and from what I can see, it doesn't tie into anything. Its hard to trace all the way, but looks as if it just does the shower and then ties into the main stack in the basement.
3) Yeah I'm thinking the lower pipe is the way to go now. The reason pitch is an issue is because there is not a lot of clearance. That tee ties into the 1 1/2' vent that sits directly under a wall. So right at that tee is a 2 1/2" drain line, to a 90*, to a tee with a 2" x 1 1/2" reducer, then the vent. Just too many things on that one section. The lowest part touches the ceiling below.
And I just saw this now, where in NJ you from? I'm located in Monmouth County.
 

Last edited by Duramax66L; 01-19-11 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Wrong Measurement
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Old 01-19-11, 03:58 PM
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I would stick with the bottom pic and pipe it that way. Work smarter not harder!!!. 30" with level pipe is not so bad. If the bubble on the level is leaning toward pitch bit not past the line its still 1/8 pitch. Use a 2 ft level.

I am in Howell area. They had the funeral for the officer from Lakewood that was shot. Helicopters all over, armored vehicles, rt 9 closed down...ect. I figured it was better to stay in tonight.

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Old 01-19-11, 04:05 PM
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Yeah, I mean just a touch of pitch is better than nothing. Just got my shower base in today. Excited to put that in, but now I have to concentrate on installing the digital shower valve. What a b#^#h to find a location to mount this thing. Just have to run by 3/4" pipe to the valve and then figure out how to run my 1/2" supply lines. I got 4 of them. I think I might just mount them to the top of the ceiling joist with r-30 insulation on top, pipes covered with pipe wrap and extra r-19 that I have lying around, just to make sure those *******s don't freeze.
Yeah its a real shame what happened to that officer. Oh I'm located in Tinton Falls. right off of exit 105.
 
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Old 01-19-11, 04:21 PM
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Wow what kind of shower valve did you get. Not that I dont like technology but you might be asking for trouble.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-19-11, 04:37 PM
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Moen 3384 ioDIGITAL Vertical Spa Valve
This guy right here. 3/4" inlet, two separate valves in one body and four 1/2" outlets.
 
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Old 01-19-11, 05:08 PM
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I am old school I would have used this with 4 heads.(link below)

Even when I did my baths I used the Moentrol because cartridges are $10. The posi temps cartridges are $90. Alot could go wrong with your technology. It dont impress me. I get somewhat mad at these large multihead showers. We should be saving water on this planet. In and out I tell my kids. I dont believe in staying in the shower more then 8-10 minutes. It taxes the sewer systems also, and where does all the water go? Streams and rivers.

Thats just me talking as a plumber and is my opinion. So dont take it to heart. I have worked in multimillion dollar homes and have seen it all.


Moen 3330 1/2'' CC Connection Valve
 
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Old 01-19-11, 05:19 PM
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Yeah you know I looked at that and after talking to the rep and what my style was, he showed me this valve and what the functions were and I was instantly in love. I'm one of those people that have to have it, got to have it types. I do agree with the environment and the taxing on the sewer systems but the system can be set to auto off. Currently, I take a 10 minute shower. The new shower has 4 body sprays, hand shower and rainhead, all flowing at 2.5 gpm. I won;t be using everything at once, just too much water imho. Most of the time I will use the rain shower head or hand held. If I use the body sprays, it will be 11 gpm, but I have them set on separate valves, so I can control whether I want to use 2 sprays or all four. And all will be set on a pressure bal loop. So the new shower won't be using any more water than the regular shower, except if I use the body sprays. Its just going to suck to put all this together. I was contemplating on Pex or copper, but ultimately chose copper. Just my preference. only thing I don't like is that the connections that go to the valve have to be installed with those instant couplings or twist fit connections. Not my fave, but we shall see. What are your thoughts on those fittings?
 
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Old 01-19-11, 05:49 PM
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Looks like you need to use some type of shark bite fittings what they show on your module. I would not put those in a sealed wall, but that module you would need an access panal so it would be ok. The thing with copper is you will have joints hidden in walls also. I did pex on my upstairs addition and was able to run full lengths with no joints in-between. Only minimal areas, such as attached to shower head, diverter, where it conects to the risers...ect. Im on a well and PH issue. I figure if your a tech guy you would use pex. Labor saver and if you are soldering and are not good do you want that in your walls.

Good luck
 
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Old 01-19-11, 05:59 PM
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Yeah you know, I thought about Pex, but that also meant I needed to buy the $150.00 crimp tool. With copper I had everything so I use it. My fittings are tight and neat so there shouldn't be any problems. I hope. Yea where the pipes all connect to the valve, I am going to leave about 18" to 24" that I will connect to the valve with Sharkbites and then use a union on the other end because there are servicing ports that need to be accessed. Yeah, the access panel is 48" x 15" I'll have to make that custom. Ill know the job is close to being done when I can get my Ditra down.
 
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