Filter/Softener install - Copper to PEX with sharkbites - Is this "okay"?


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Old 01-25-11, 05:50 PM
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Filter/Softener install - Copper to PEX with sharkbites - Is this "okay"?

I'm contemplating self installing a sediment filter/water softener. But I can't solder copper pipe to save my life..

Would it be half-a$$ed to transition from the copper to PEX, then back to copper (using sharkbite fittings) like my spiffy little diagram shows?

It's hard to tell in the pic, but the existing vertical piece of copper is about 6" from either wall. I would plan on securing it with some sort of stand off, then securing the pex to the wall.

Surely I'll get quotes from a plumber to do it all in copper first, this is just a backup DIY plan.

 
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Old 01-25-11, 09:34 PM
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Nope it wouldn't be 1/2 assed at all. Just make sure to have a pex shut-off before the filter and you're good to go.
 
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Old 01-26-11, 05:11 AM
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Any preference to put the shutoff right before the filter, or down closer to the meter?

Thanks
 
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Old 01-26-11, 08:11 AM
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Either. And it should be a ball valve type. The reason I suggest it is because I see that there's a gate valve right before your water meter with some age to it, and I feel that it will fail eventually, so it's always good to have a back-up shut-off.

Of course if you could sweat copper, then I'd suggest replacing the gate valve completely, but that's not an option here, so that's why I'm suggesting the ball valve.
 

Last edited by VIPlumber; 01-26-11 at 08:11 AM. Reason: wording
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Old 01-26-11, 02:43 PM
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Actually that valve is brand new. We moved in about 3 months ago, and it was dripping during the inspection so the PO had it replaced. But I like the idea of having a second shutoff after the meter just to be safe...
 
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Old 01-26-11, 05:12 PM
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i would suggest getting 2 ball valves. they make them sharkbite style. and install these on the vertical piece of copper that will be removed. Basically one at the top and one at the bottom where your pex will connect. This way when you have to change the filter, you can shut off both valves and you wont get any water run out from the pipes going up to your house. My house had 2 valves and it worked great.
 
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Old 01-30-11, 10:30 AM
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I would also consider a "bypass" valve too so if the filter or softener needs to be taken out for some reason, you can continue using water in the house. You'll probably never need it, but if you do, it will be great to have it.

So I'd recommend 3 ball valves, one after the meter, one after the softener, and one between the meter and existing copper pipe.

You'll want to add a 2x4 or something along the wall to attach the valves/pipe to to ensure they aren't just floating.

Also, be sure the electrical ground connection is maintained between the "house" copper pipe and where the meter is grounded. Be sure to use real electrical ground clamps (like what is there) and be sure they are attached BEFORE cutting out the copper section. There have been instances where people have been shocked when the ground isn't connected correctly.
 
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Old 01-31-11, 05:49 PM
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Zorfdt,

The softener I've got coming is coming with a bypass, and I picked up a filter housing with a built in bypass/shutoff.

Good thinking on the ground, I went to start tonight and realized I was going to be "ungrounding" my house plumbing.

I know it probably varies by state, but can I get away with a new clamp on other side of the plastic and running a length of new wire between them kind of like a bridge?

My current ground wire goes outside with the water pipe, and runs clean to the other side of the house to the electric panel.
 
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Old 01-31-11, 08:17 PM
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I believe the wire from the electrical panel needs to be un-broken between the panel and the water pipe leading out of the house. You can use a jumper (8ga wire and clamps) to jump around the filter/softener without a problem.
 
 

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