Water Heater Problem

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-06-11, 12:15 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 262
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Water Heater Problem

I re-installed my electric water heater today and thought everything was fine. It was filling when I turned back on the water valve, but after 2 hours, no hot water was coming out (it is getting power too). I think this may be a problem too but I don't know what it means -- when I turned off the cold inlet valve and turned on the hot water at the faucet the water ran for several seconds and then stopped. I thought perhaps that I had installed the hot/cold lines on the wrong side of the heater but the cold side does have a plastic insert that I assumed was the inlet tube for the heater. Could the inlet tube be clogged with rust now? This house has galvanized pipes and the water has been off for a couple of weeks.

Any help appreciated.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-06-11, 02:43 PM
shacko's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Baltimore County Maryland
Posts: 2,138
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
>>>I turned off the cold inlet valve and turned on the hot water at the faucet the water ran for several seconds and then stopped.<<<

I don't quite know what you are saying, if you turned the cold off at the heater you wont get any how water, explain what exactly you turned off
 
  #3  
Old 02-06-11, 08:01 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 262
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yes, that's what I was saying but I see that it should happen that way (the hot water is being "pushed" out by the cold inlet, right?).

Anyway, I'm still getting no hot water and it was just fine before I uninstalled it.

I opened the TPR valve and there isn't any air in the tank now. Anything I may have overlooked?
 
  #4  
Old 02-06-11, 08:14 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,245
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Tests When there is No Hot Water at All

The cause of no hot water at all coming from an electric water heater might be
  1. No electrical power to the heater
  2. A water heater timer is installed but is "off" or not working - see [SIZE=-1]TIMERS for ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS[/SIZE]
  3. Failed high temperature cutoff switch, or high temperature switch is "off on reset" and needs to be re-set - see Electric Water Heater Controls List
  4. Both upper and lower heating elements have failed - see Test Electric Water Heater Elements
I would start with the red reset button on the top thermostat.
 

Last edited by hvactechfw; 02-06-11 at 08:38 PM.
  #5  
Old 02-07-11, 08:02 AM
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 113
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
You didnt say but if you turned current on before filling the tank, most likely you burned the new elements out and they will have to be replaced.
 
  #6  
Old 02-07-11, 03:43 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 262
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks, guys. I tried to push the reset button (in various ways!) but it would not budge.

I knew that turning on current with no water was a no-no but I honestly may have done it...just not sure.

I am going to give the elements the multimeter test.
 
  #7  
Old 02-07-11, 03:56 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 262
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
When I test the resistance, some sites say to remove one of the wires and others just say to touch the terminals (without power of course). Do I need to remove one wire when testing?
 
  #8  
Old 02-07-11, 03:59 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,245
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
remove both wires with the power off. this will ensure true reading
 
  #9  
Old 02-08-11, 07:51 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 262
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Well, I am a dummy. The upper element was reading open circuit.

Does anyone know what size socket the element is? I know it would have to be deep but do I need to get the specific socket for elements?

Thanks.
 
  #10  
Old 02-08-11, 02:18 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,245
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
go to the depot or lowes, they have an inexpensive socket/wrench for them and the element you probably need
 
  #11  
Old 02-08-11, 05:25 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 262
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks! Lowe's had it and I got the element out (indeed it was burned in half).

Ok, last question. Do I need to get the exact loop design (mine was just a short loop) or if they have a 4500W with the extended loop design (looks like four wires and not two) would be there be an advantage to getting that?
 
  #12  
Old 02-08-11, 05:32 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,245
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
as long as you get the same wattage and the new element doesn't interfere with anything in the tank then it should be fine. however, a similar design would be beneficial to how your HWH was designed to work. IMO
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: