I re-installed my electric water heater today and thought everything was fine. It was filling when I turned back on the water valve, but after 2 hours, no hot water was coming out (it is getting power too). I think this may be a problem too but I don't know what it means -- when I turned off the cold inlet valve and turned on the hot water at the faucet the water ran for several seconds and then stopped. I thought perhaps that I had installed the hot/cold lines on the wrong side of the heater but the cold side does have a plastic insert that I assumed was the inlet tube for the heater. Could the inlet tube be clogged with rust now? This house has galvanized pipes and the water has been off for a couple of weeks.

Any help appreciated.

 

>>>I turned off the cold inlet valve and turned on the hot water at the faucet the water ran for several seconds and then stopped.

 

Yes, that's what I was saying but I see that it should happen that way (the hot water is being "pushed" out by the cold inlet, right?).

Anyway, I'm still getting no hot water and it was just fine before I uninstalled it.

I opened the TPR valve and there isn't any air in the tank now. Anything I may have overlooked?

 

Tests When there is No Hot Water at All

The cause of no hot water at all coming from an electric water heater might be

1. No electrical power to the heater
2. A water heater timer is installed but is "off" or not working - see [SIZE=-1]TIMERS for ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS[/SIZE]
3. Failed high temperature cutoff switch, or high temperature switch is "off on reset" and needs to be re-set - see Electric Water Heater Controls List
4. Both upper and lower heating elements have failed - see Test Electric Water Heater Elements

I would start with the red reset button on the top thermostat.

 

You didnt say but if you turned current on before filling the tank, most likely you burned the new elements out and they will have to be replaced.

 

Thanks, guys. I tried to push the reset button (in various ways!) but it would not budge.

I knew that turning on current with no water was a no-no but I honestly may have done it...just not sure.

I am going to give the elements the multimeter test.

 

When I test the resistance, some sites say to remove one of the wires and others just say to touch the terminals (without power of course). Do I need to remove one wire when testing?

 

remove both wires with the power off. this will ensure true reading

 

Well, I am a dummy. The upper element was reading open circuit.

Does anyone know what size socket the element is? I know it would have to be deep but do I need to get the specific socket for elements?

Thanks.

 

go to the depot or lowes, they have an inexpensive socket/wrench for them and the element you probably need

 

Thanks! Lowe's had it and I got the element out (indeed it was burned in half).

Ok, last question. Do I need to get the exact loop design (mine was just a short loop) or if they have a 4500W with the extended loop design (looks like four wires and not two) would be there be an advantage to getting that?

 

as long as you get the same wattage and the new element doesn't interfere with anything in the tank then it should be fine. however, a similar design would be beneficial to how your HWH was designed to work. IMO