replacing galvanizes pipe

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Old 02-11-11, 08:52 PM
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replacing galvanizes pipe

I have already got some advice but i need a little more. I am fixing to relace 30 yr old galvanized water lines with the pex tubing & i would like to know do i start relacing from the water meter which is about 50' from where pipe enters under house.I have been told several different options on the best way to keep water pressure from droping when using shower & commode is flushed or faucet is turned on.I have been told to use 1/2" tubing begining where pipe enters under house & then use 3/4" when connecting from to all fixtures such as faucets & shower.
I have also been told to use 3/4" from where pipe enters house & then use 1/2" to run up to all fixtures such as showers & faucets.I just want to be sure i don't have the water pressure drop i am experencing now with thes old pipes & its going to be hell under the house so i just want to be sure i do the right thing the first time. Thanks for your help
 
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Old 02-11-11, 10:06 PM
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I think you need one fact here. What size an type main is coming into the house???

I had a guy with 1/2" galv to the home. Low pressure. Spent money on big pipes, boosterpump, and did not work. Not enough volume. Ended up pulling new 1" sevice. The guy threw money at me.....LOL

Let us know..

Mike NJ
 
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Old 02-12-11, 05:06 AM
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Like Mike said (and I did in your other post) you want to go from big to small. You must have volume, and going from small to large will deplete the volume. What is the size pipe from the street. Most likely a 1" line or at least 3/4". If so, then the 3/4" home runs will supply the volume you need as you step down at the fixtures.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 09:59 AM
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size pipe

The galvanized pipe coming from water meter to house is 1/2"
adapter coming out of meter is about 2 to 3" long with end coming out of meter 3/4or 1" & then on end of adapter starts the 1/2" pipe & everything under house is 1/2" galvanized including everything to fixtures.could i just replace the 1/2" pipe from meter to house with 3/4" or even 1" & not replace the 1/2" under house & get more water volume when a faucet is turned on.I plan to take your advice & replace what ever you suggest. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 10:23 AM
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Mike may disagree, but if I were you, and had the opportunity of ditching all the galvanized, I'd start at the meter with at least 3/4 (or 1" if a longer run) and complete the job with pvc or pex all the way and do your thing on the inside as discussed.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 11:22 AM
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pipe

what do you mean by 3/4" or 1" longer run Also which is best pvc or pex---- also the 50' from meter to house which would be better pvc or the pex tubing.
Thanks
 
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Old 02-13-11, 03:28 PM
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It won't really matter about whether it is pex or pvc, but you had planned pex in the house, so it could be pex. You only have a 50' run, you can use 3/4" from the meter to inside the house, where you would step the 1" down anyway to 3/4" to go into your pressure regulating valve, then on to the water heater and supply line runs of cold water. If you had a longer run from the meter, say 150' or more, I would run a 1" line if serviced by the municipal meter, mainly for pressure and added volume at the beginning of the run.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 04:34 PM
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regulating valve

I don't have a pressure regulating valve nothing but pipe from meter to house & only runs of pipe under house no regulating valve no where do i need a regulating valve.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 06:05 PM
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It may be a bit of a expense but you should replace the servive. 1/2 galv is probably closed up. But as chandler says you can increase the volumn after the main with larger diameter pipe.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 02-13-11, 06:08 PM
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You only need a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) if the pressure coming from the street is over about 70 or 80 psi. If you don't have one now, you probably don't need one (though you may want to ask your neighbors if they have one)

After you replace your main line into the house (which I agree with others is quite important to solving any pressure/volume problems you're having), you'll need to decide how to run your lines. Historically, most houses are run with one 3/4" pipe "trunk" from the meter to each room. In each room, the 3/4" would get split into 1/2" pipes to each fixture (toilet, sink, etc).

With PEX, instead of a main trunk, many plumbers run a manifold system. Each room or each fixture would have it's own line back to the main utility room. Each run has it's own shutoff. The benefit is that you won't see a significant drop in pressure when someone flushes a toilet since each fixture has its own run. Also, you have fewer (or no) joints hidden in the walls.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 09:20 PM
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servive

ok last question about replacing galvanized pipe.
question is for Lawrosa ---what do you mean when saying replace "servive"
Thanks for all the help i have received & i will put it to good use.
 
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Old 02-14-11, 05:09 AM
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Mike's still on his first cup.........the word is "service"......replace the service pipe from the meter to the house. His fingers are like mine, probably, too big for the keyboard. I would install a PRV anyway, because you can never tell when the city/county will "boost" pressure, test lines, change lines, etc. If you don't have one, and they do any of this, you will have problems. Having one on a low pressure line won't hurt anything.
 
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Old 02-14-11, 07:22 AM
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LOL ... yes I type too fast for my own good. I just noticed a spell checker.....Dohhh!!!!

We replace water service with no trenching. With galv. pipe its hard to do. You need to get a cable through the pipe first. Thats the hard part with 1/2" galv.



Mike NJ
 
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