New plumbing for kitchen sink, future washing machine one floor below
#1
05-19-11, 10:35 AM
New plumbing for kitchen sink, future washing machine one floor below
So, during our kitchen remodel I discovered that the old cast iron was never replaced in the kitchen walls. In fact, the PVC that ran alongside it never vented back to the original.
Here is my plan, along with photos of the existing. Will this meet code? I have read the plumbing portion of the IRC twice now, and I think I have a good grasp on it, but not certain.
Thanks in advance for any corrections, criticisms.
* note - I would use a 2" drain for the kitchen sink, but it won't fit in the masonry wall cavity that was newly created for it.
* second note - pics are of existing leaky, nasty, poorly installed (the PVC that is) pipe - not my work!
Here is my plan, along with photos of the existing. Will this meet code? I have read the plumbing portion of the IRC twice now, and I think I have a good grasp on it, but not certain.
Thanks in advance for any corrections, criticisms.
* note - I would use a 2" drain for the kitchen sink, but it won't fit in the masonry wall cavity that was newly created for it.
* second note - pics are of existing leaky, nasty, poorly installed (the PVC that is) pipe - not my work!
#2
05-19-11, 11:55 AM
Super Moderator
Just to get a grasp on the drawing, the washer hook up is where it says concrete slab and the sink is right of where it say 45 st ell?
If so that is correct from what I can tell. Just when you tie in the kitchen sink vent to the stack make sure it connects above the flood plane of the kitchen sink. That tee in your first and second pic is not high enough, plus its upside down anyway.
Looks like the old brownstone homes we renovated in NYC/Hoboken NJ
Mike NJ
If so that is correct from what I can tell. Just when you tie in the kitchen sink vent to the stack make sure it connects above the flood plane of the kitchen sink. That tee in your first and second pic is not high enough, plus its upside down anyway.
Looks like the old brownstone homes we renovated in NYC/Hoboken NJ
Mike NJ
#3
05-19-11, 02:30 PM
lawrosa,
Yeah, that cast iron T was from the original sink that had been removed some time ago - instead of tying the new PVC into it further up, they had simply torn of the lead and folded it over. Heck, the cast mount was still on the wall when I stripped the crappy fur-out job they had done. Now I know where that smell was coming from...
I was going to cut the cast iron about 6' up or so in the first and second pic, transition to PVC, then fab it up as the drawing shows. The initial T for the vent will be about 16" above the flood rim of the sink.
I know the cleanouts need to be a max of 6' above the slab in the basement - was gonna drop them in at about 36".
Yeah - this is a sears craftsman home from 1923. Fairly overbuilt - I'll give it that.
Thanks for the response!
Yeah, that cast iron T was from the original sink that had been removed some time ago - instead of tying the new PVC into it further up, they had simply torn of the lead and folded it over. Heck, the cast mount was still on the wall when I stripped the crappy fur-out job they had done. Now I know where that smell was coming from...
I was going to cut the cast iron about 6' up or so in the first and second pic, transition to PVC, then fab it up as the drawing shows. The initial T for the vent will be about 16" above the flood rim of the sink.
I know the cleanouts need to be a max of 6' above the slab in the basement - was gonna drop them in at about 36".
Yeah - this is a sears craftsman home from 1923. Fairly overbuilt - I'll give it that.
Thanks for the response!
#4
05-19-11, 02:41 PM
Super Moderator
When you snap the line try to get support under the next hub somewhere above the sink. I dont know how your set up really is, but cast likes to drop after it cut. The shear weight of it. Forget about trying to lift it back up. Been ther done that.
A 2 hours fitting cut in, can become a 3 day stack replacement..... Get what I'm say'in....
Mike NJ
A 2 hours fitting cut in, can become a 3 day stack replacement..... Get what I'm say'in....
Mike NJ
#5
05-19-11, 03:22 PM
yeah - don't want that. Tied it off with some strap to the brickwork as high as I could reach, and again at a hub, and again just above where I'm gonna cut.
Definitely don't want to be replacing this one - it makes a jog inside the wall of the master bedroom, and another in the attic - that would be a lot more plaster I didn't plan on replacing...
Definitely don't want to be replacing this one - it makes a jog inside the wall of the master bedroom, and another in the attic - that would be a lot more plaster I didn't plan on replacing...
#6
05-19-11, 07:01 PM
Last question - the top fitting, the vent tee. Can I use an inverted wye fitting with a street 45 there instead - just makes everything ine up better inside the cavity. If I use a vent tee and a street 90, I end up pushing things out of vertical.
#7
05-19-11, 07:08 PM
Super Moderator
I am not sure what the code actually says, but I know I have never seen it done, or used one to tie in a vent.
I would say no, only because if debris fell down the stack it may go down the vent with a y. It is leass likely with a ty.
Mike NJ
I would say no, only because if debris fell down the stack it may go down the vent with a y. It is leass likely with a ty.
Mike NJ
#8
05-19-11, 08:54 PM
Ah - good point - I hadn't thought of that; although, I must admit, if something makes it down 25 feet of old crooked cast iron jigging and jagging the whole way... 
I'll figure a way to fit it in there. May have to drop to 1 1/2" for the sink vent.
I'll figure a way to fit it in there. May have to drop to 1 1/2" for the sink vent.
