The house I just bought has the laundry area in the basement. It doesn't have a standpipe. There's likely no P trap either. I have no idea what's on the other side of the foundation. I'm tempted to dig it up to find out... Right now, all I see is the improperly done ABS in the center of the picture. The pipes going up and to the right go to the rest of the house. The kitchen sink happens to be in the back, directly above the water heater.

However, let's assume that it somehow connects directly into the main (unless someone with more experience than me can guess otherwise). My plan is to have a piece of pipe stick straight out of the wall, install a P trap, then have a stand pipe on the end of it. Is there anything else I need?



Ignore the corroded/leaking water pipes. I'll get to those too...

 

sciguy125,

Welcome to the forums.

Galvy pipe and lead and okum caulked joints. You bought yourself an antique can of worms!! Hopefully you got it at a good price, because it's gonna unload your bank account to fix the problems. The soil pipe's probably good for another 40 to 50 years, but the galvy drains are living on borrowed time.

I have NO CLUE what that ABS pipe thing is about -- neither did the guy who installed it!!

Is the washing machine down there too?? If so, you'll need a back flow preventer (a very sophisitacted check valve) and a pump to get the drain of the WM done properly. That 4" (or is it only 3"?) soil pipe is your main line going to the sewer or septic. If the WM is below the level of that, it's gonna cost you a fist full of dollars for that drain.

The "corroded/leaky pipes" are the LEAST of your concerns!!

 

Thanks lefty.

I guess I wasn't very clear, sorry. The ABS thing is the "standpipe" for the washing machine. You can see the top of the washer in the lower left of the picture. Obviously, it's below the main sewer line.

I want to replace it with a "proper" P trap and standpipe. It looks like most washers are able to pump up to 8', so that shouldn't be a problem (I'll have it less than 6'). However, I was concerned about sewage backup. I don't like the idea of having my basement filled with sewage if something gets clogged... While doing some research, I found something called a backwater valve. Is that what I want?

But yes, this this house has all sorts of issues. It's from 1940 and has had a bunch of slapdash updates. I found some scary electrical problems too... Many of the neighbors seem to have simply torn down their houses and rebuilt.

 

I'm not certain of the plan of simply adding a p-trap and standpipe up to joist level and have the washer drain into that. It sounds like it would work, but I know the standpipe needs to be at least a minimum length... and I'm not certain what it is. Others may be able to chime in.

If that doesn't work, I would look into installing a laundry tub with a pump. The pump will include a check valve and tie directly into your soil stack, and you then don't have to worry about the sewer backing up into your basement - plus, you get an extra sink!

I've used this one before and loved it. Easy to install and doesn't require a vent
Amazon.com: LTA-1-ABC HARTELL DIRECT MOUNT SINK, Automatic laundry tray pump w/8 foot cord & plug: Home Improvement

Or you could get the more traditional sink pump setup:
Amazon.com: FP0S1800LTS, Flotec Direct Drain Sink Pump System - 1/4HP: Home Improvement


I'll second Lefty's comments about planning on replacing that galvanized piping sooner rather than later. I'd be surprised if you had any pressure and much drainage.

Oh - and plan on replacing the dryer vent too. Rigid steel vent pipe is the way to go, that stuff is no longer sold for dryers due to the fire hazards associated with the soft plastic vent piping.
Good luck!
-Mike

 

Hi.

Yes add a backwater valve, trap and stand pipe. Cant tell but looks like a rubber no hub holding that ABS pipe at the wall. I would say remove that big clean out cap and run the washer. Put a garbage can under the clean out and see if you can see or hear the washer draining in the main line. Make sure no one uses water while you do this.

More important.... Gas dryer? Is that the dryer vent that looks unhooked? CO issues are very dangerous... Hook it up asap and please use ridgid/metal pipe. Not the accordian style that looks like its metal. Not to code.

More important... That flue on the HWH at the draft hood is hanging by a thread, or dislodged some. You can wake up dead... CO is dangerous. Please attach all flue joints with proper metal screws. 3 per joint is code.

Also... where does that flue go?? It goes in the wall but then where? Does not look like a chimney. This is somewhat important..

You should get prices for a repipe of the home. Waste and water for a 1 home bath, I would say $6000 or less.

( I would have negotiated the cost of all this off the price of the home. I cant believe it passed inspection....Uggg. )

Mike NJ

 

Yes, there's a rubber coupling holding the ABS to the wall. I like the idea of opening the drain to see what's going on. I'll probably do it this weekend.

As for the dryer vent, yes, that's what the tube is. However, there's currently no dryer anyway...

And the flue for the water heater is firmly affixed now (but no screws yet). The owner may have moved it when he fixed the strapping, then forgot to put it back. The inspector pointed out that the straps weren't correct and it had to be fixed. We need to be ready for those pesky CA earthquakes... I haven't confirmed it, but I think the large vent pipe on the side of the house going to the roof is for the water heater.

 

So if I look into the cleanout, I see it go straight a couple feet, then turn toward the street. There's a hole in the side about half way down which I believe is for the existing washer drain.

The current plan is wall > backwater valve > p trap > standpipe. All 2" ABS. Is there a certain length each of these sections needs to be? I know that the standpipe needs to be 18" tall. Also, is this thing supposed to be vented? If so, that's going to be trouble...

 

Probably needs a vent. I would not worry about it at this point.

I see no stack and i am sure that plumbing is a venting nightmare anyway. You can put a AAV after the BWV.

How old is the Mor flo HWH?.


Mike NJ

 

I'm planning to install an AAV. They seem to be illegal in CA, but I'm going to do it anyway. It's going to be too hard to run a real vent. As for the water heater, the fittings on the top are corroded, so it's on it's way out.

Now, while I was dry fitting the parts for my standpipe, I found that the tee for the existing cleanout is in the way. Is there any reason I shouldn't remove it and use the tee behind it as the cleanout? I'm hesitant to remove it because they must have installed it for a reason. Maybe it's against code to use the tee for the soil pipe as the cleanout?

Thanks for all your help, by the way, Mike.

 

I thought only if concealed in a wall??? Check on the actual code if you can find it for your county/state

I dont see a tee behind it. But if your talking about that cast iron Y, with the clean plug and dead end pipe, yes you can remove it. And of course if you are talking about adding a cleanout cap to that Y taht is left, then yes. Its always good to have a cleanout at the main.

Mike NJ

 

My city uses the California Plumbing Code. I browsed the chapter on vents and I didn't see anything that would allow an AAV.

As for the cleanout, I think we're talking about the same thing. My terminology is probably wrong. I'm an electrical engineer, not a plumber...

 

Alright... One project down, many to go. Thanks for your help, Mike.

 

Looks like a pro did it....I like that you put a pipe support. Good job.

Just curious, if someone flushes a toilet upstairs, do you hear that studor vent open?

Make sure you put water in the trap.

Mike NJ

 

Nothing upstairs opens the vent.