What parts do I need?

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Old 08-10-11, 10:30 PM
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What parts do I need?

Hooking up my water filtration unit (RO/DI) has been a nightmare. After a plethora of nipples, couplers, and multiple trips to Lowes, I finally managed to get something working.. though I had a leak and broke the plastic nipple. Now I feel very frustrated and I am almost positive that I can do something better, using new parts.

So, if you guys could help me pick out the correct parts I would be most grateful!

I am trying to attach a tee under the sink on the cold water supply line. The soft tubing from the faucet is connected to the rigid piping coming up from the floor via a 3/8" compression fitting. Female compression nut and male pipe end.

I have disconnected that and this is where I wish to insert the tee. So the tee (or tee plus adapters or whatever) must have a male top that accepts the 3/8" compression nut from the soft tubing connected from the faucet. It must have a 3/8" compression nut on the bottom to fasten onto the male pipe coming up out of the floor.

The side opening where it tee's off... I'm not sure. I know I need to put a ball valve on there so I can control the water flow from completely on to completely off. This ball valve must have a quickconnect or barbed fitting to accept my 1/4" RO tubing.

So, if somebody is willing, could you help me locate the parts I would need online or list them for me?

I have tried so hard researching and finding parts myself (learned the plumbing terminology used above in the process.. lol) but I just can't seem to get it.

I would give up on this if I didn't desperately need the RO/DI water for my saltwater aquarium.

Thank you in advance!
 
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Old 08-10-11, 11:01 PM
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Hi,

First I would say the pipe comming up through the floor is 1/2" correct?

Then you need 3/8 male threads at the other end for yje flex line for the sink correct?

And are you sure the RO is only 1/4"? See if the hose for the EO fits in the 3/8" side of the 3/8" compression nut you removed.

And there are no valves under the sink for hot and cold?

Answer this and I will try to locate what you need.

You want simple no solder stuff right?


Mike NJ
 
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Old 08-10-11, 11:20 PM
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This might work for you. 1/2 x3/8 x 3/8



1/2 in. NOM Compression Inlet x 3/8 in. OD Compression x 3/8 in. OD Compression Outlet Rough MultiTurn Dual Outlet Valve-CR1901LRX R1 at The Home Depot

If not here is one 1/2 x 3/8 x 1/4

1/2 in. NOM Comp Inlet x 3/8 in. OD Comp x 1/4 OD Comp Outlet Rough Multi-Turn Dual Outlet Valve-CR1900RX R1 at The Home Depot

Dont use the nut and ferrule on one of the 3/8" outlets. The sink flex line will screw right to it.

When useing plastic pipe on brass compresion fitting you should be using plastic ferrules. Are you putting the inserts in the ends of the plastic tubing? If not the ferrule crushes the pipe then leaks.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 08-11-11, 12:25 PM
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I don't know what size the pipe is that is coming out of the floor. All I know is that the 3/8" nut screws onto the male end of it to a water tight seal.

Lawrosa.. that looks OK, but there will be times when we need to use the tap while the RO/DI unit is running (such as to get a glass of water, rinse something off, etc). So a tee would be much better. Also, where is the 1/2" end coming from?

I need a tee with a ball valve. And the ball valve needs a barb or quickconnect end.

I'm so confused.

If I take the nut off of another nut will screw onto that spot?
 
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Old 08-11-11, 01:22 PM
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Well lets start one thing at a time.

1. The pipe comming out of the floor for the sink should be 1/2". That is the most common size. Unless you have a mobile home the pipe size may be smaller.

The one end of the valve is 1/2" compression. You slip the nut on the pipe, then the ferrule. Then slip the valve over the pipe and draw the ferrule and nut up to the valve and tighten.

This walve when shut off, shuts off the sink and ro for servicing. One valve for all.

2. The are two configurations aside from the 1/2 for the water line up through the floor. 3/8" and 3/8" or 3/8" and 1/4"

3/8" is definetly for the sink supply. You take one of the nuts off and the sink supply will screw roight to it. It will seal as you descibe below.

3. The other end depends on what size hose the RO is. You said 1/4". Then use the 1/4" port that is left over. To hook that up you slip the nut over the plastic tube, put on a plastic ferrule, then put a insert in the end of the plastic pipe to keep it from crushing.

And thats it.....

This should be coming from the sink and attaches to a 3/8 outlet.


Say this is the valve. The flex attaches so. ( Assume there is a second port out the side)

Then assume this is the second connection for the ro and that is a plastic pipe.

The only thing it needs a sleeve inserted to the end. See that chrome looking tube?


Mike NJ
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 08-11-11 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 08-11-11, 04:35 PM
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Thanks for all of that information with the visual specs! That gives me a lot to go on.
The only part I'm confused about is the 1/2" part (sorry, you tried to explain this, I know). The compression fitting holding the water supply line together is 3/8". The 3/8" nut screws onto the pipe coming out of the floor. Wouldn't that make this pipe 3/8" (or at least have a 3/8" male end)?
 
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Old 08-11-11, 05:11 PM
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Could not find a good pic but do you have something like this? That is 1/2" copper coming up through the floor.



You never stated if you have existing valves. If you do or dont you need to remove the cold valve or adater and install the valve I linked in the previous post.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 08-11-11, 09:06 PM
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Yes, that is exactly what I have. Okay, so it's 1/2" pipe coming up out of the floor. Why do I need to remove the cold valve though? I can put whatever I get on top of the valve. I need a tee though, I don't want to force water one way or the other. I will look at the parts at lowes and home depot and see if I can come up with what I need. Going to look for a 3/8 x 3/8 x 1/4 tee with compression fittings. Then going to look for a ball valve to go on the 1/4 end of the tee. Or maybe get a 3/8 x 3/8 x 3/8 tee and have the ball valve go from 3/8 to 1/4.

Talking this out helps me get the picture clear in my head. Thank you so much lawrosa.
 
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Old 08-11-11, 09:33 PM
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I completely see what you are saying now with the valve that you pictured. That would be great.. except I need separate valve control for the RO/DI line. I "make" about 20 gallons of RO/DI water once per week and then switch the valve off until I need to make purified water again. The RO/DI unit I have does not have on/off control.. so if water is going to it, it is on. This is why there's a need for a separate valve to control water flow through the RO tubing.

Thank you.
 
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Old 08-12-11, 12:13 AM
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OK I see what you want.

Here is a 1/4" push on valve. Look for that in the home store.



1/4" x 1/4" Shut Off Ball Valve JG: APEC Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Filter Systems

Then this is the tee you probably want.



3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 1/4 in. Compression x Compression T-fitting-CT2-664X P at The Home Depot

Mike NJ
 
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Old 08-12-11, 11:54 AM
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Yeah, that looks a bit more like it!
So, I would cut the RO tubing and insert the valve between. Then use a compression fitting (nut, ferrule, sleave) to fit the tubing to the valve?
 
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Old 08-12-11, 12:01 PM
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Yes.

Mike NJ......................
 
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Old 08-12-11, 01:15 PM
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Perfect. The only valve I can find has 1/4" male pipe threading x 1/4" quick connect fitting. So I'll need to find a 1/4" OD female x 1/4" FIP piece to connect the ball valve to the tee.

Tricky for me, but I'll show the guy at lowes and he'll know what to hook me up with.
 
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