Add bends after bathtub P trap?

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  #1  
Old 10-03-11, 06:46 AM
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Add bends after bathtub P trap?

We have a drop ceiling in the basement and currently the bottom bend of the P trap from our tub is lower than the ceiling. The old owner just cut a hole in a ceiling panel to get it to fit, I would like to get the trap back up above the ceiling. Can I cut the down pipe, raise the trap up, then add another bend or two to allow me to connect back up to the same drain pipe?? I've attached a picture to help you understand what I'm talking about. If that isn't possible, what is the best way to do this?

[IMG]http://i55.************/2uikj7o.jpg[/IMG]


For some reason I can't add a link to the image, here is the URL. Just take out the space before between tinypic. and com

http://i55.tinypic. com/2uikj7o.jpg
 
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  #2  
Old 10-03-11, 06:50 AM
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Hi,

You need to upload your pic to a free site like photobucket.com. Then post the link back here. That tiny pic thing dont work.

Also the trap can only go as high as the tail piece for the waste and overflow for the tub. If its as high as it can go thats it.

But need to see the pic.

Mike NJ
 
  #3  
Old 10-03-11, 07:09 AM
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Here is the pic

If you need to see it from another angle or anything let me know. I have a couple different shots. Thanks for the help.
 
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Old 10-03-11, 08:05 AM
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Hi,

You have that whole PVC tailpiece to work with.

I woulddisconnect that whole assembly right from the rubber coupling. You will use it just as it is.

I would go up over the copper. Cut that tailpiece just high enough so the trap arm is over the copper.

Then come right off the rubber coupling with a street ellboe. The ell fits right in the coupling.

Up then another ellbow. Install the trap back up and probably trim that arm somewhat it will be alittle longer after you add those 2 ellbows.

Hope you understand.



Mike NJ
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 10-03-11 at 09:37 AM.
  #5  
Old 10-03-11, 09:22 AM
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Mike, let me confirm I have this correct...

Disconnect the P trap from the down pipe.

Disconnect the other end from the rubber coupling, leaving the coupling on the drain pipe.

Move the whole assembly high enough to clear the ceiling.

Attach a street elbow to the rubber coupling.

Trim down the straight PVC coming off the P trap and attach an elbow

Connect the two elbows with a straight piece.

Does all of that sound about right? I'm new to all of this and really appreciate the help.
 
  #6  
Old 10-03-11, 09:31 AM
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Yes that is correct. And to move the whole trap up you will need to cut that piece coming down off the tub. Thats the tail piece. But you can only cut so much for the p trap to slide on properly. You need to leave 3" or so below where that tailpiece starts getting wider towards the top. The flare part.

But you may not have to cut that much.

Hope you understand.

Pic for reference.



Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-03-11, 09:41 AM
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Just a note.

If you have steel pipe it may be a good idea to lay some plastic down and snake that line to the cast iron. Do it now or do it later, but I bet your going to need to do it a some time.

This is all if indeed steel pipe. It will be messy. Make sure you cover a large area. You will have a splatter zone.

Mike NJ
 
  #8  
Old 10-03-11, 11:15 AM
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It is indeed steel going into cast iron. As long as it's apart I may as well snake it now. Mike thanks again for the prompt replies and advice, it really is appreciated.
 
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Old 10-03-11, 11:33 AM
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Your welcome. Hope it all works out for you.

Mike NJ
 
  #10  
Old 10-04-11, 06:37 AM
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Mike, here is what it ended up looking like. Not exactly what we were talking about, but pretty close. Does that look decent, or is there anything I need to change?



 
  #11  
Old 10-04-11, 06:41 AM
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Very good. I dont see any issue.

Great job!!!!

Mike NJ
 
  #12  
Old 10-04-11, 12:23 PM
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What you have done is to create a s-trap which is illegal in most areas; you can't go up and back down on a p-trap, sorry
 
  #13  
Old 10-04-11, 01:35 PM
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It's not going back up after the P, it's going over, then down into the steel drain. Is that still a problem?
 
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Old 10-04-11, 01:53 PM
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A s trap is different. A P trap has a quarter bend as you have. ( The street ell with trap adapter )

An s trap would have another upside down trap in place of that st ell. Then that would not be a quarter bend as code states.

And if to want to get technical the p trap arm from end of trap to where he has the street ell with trap adapter needs to be a min. of 2 x's the trap diameter. That would be 3". That would be any p trap code.

So basically after it leaves the trap it needs to be a min of 3" before it drops vertically. ( Thats if the trap is 1 1/2" )

It looks like 3" to me.

Your fine......

Mike NJ
 
  #15  
Old 10-05-11, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ezhess View Post
It's not going back up after the P, it's going over, then down into the steel drain. Is that still a problem?
If you look at your fittings you are making a S when you drop the outlet side down, you can't run a trap that way, you have to come off the back of the trap with a straight pipe with 1/4 in. fall to where it hooks into the drain, you can't run the extra ells in your hook-up
 
  #16  
Old 10-05-11, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ezhess View Post
Mike, here is what it ended up looking like. Not exactly what we were talking about, but pretty close. Does that look decent, or is there anything I need to change?



Is the supply line rubbing the drain line or is it just very close?

Scott
 
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