7/8" pipe cap?

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Old 10-26-11, 04:15 PM
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7/8" pipe cap?

So I've got a gas line in my garage that has a branch that ends
with a butterfly or ball valve (to my untrained eye). On other side of the valve was an unused flex line. I removed the flex line with
plans of capping the pipe. I assumed it was a 3/4" pipe and bought
a 3/4" pipe cap but it was too big (barely). After examining the flex line that runs to the furnace, it appears the O.D. is 7/8" (there's a label on that line that wasn't on the one that I was removed). Nowhere can I find a 7/8" pipe cap. Seems 1/2" and 3/4" are the common sizes. Has anyone come across or know where I can order a 7/8" cap? I've Googled all afternoon and could find nothing.
Thanks!
 
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Old 10-26-11, 04:26 PM
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Hi,

Just wondeing why it goes 1/2" then 3/4" then 1/2" again....LOL

Anyway that part you have yellow tape on, never gets tape. Thats not how that seals. That is a flare fitting.

If you want to cap it, remove that 1/2" flare adapter. That will leave you with that short 1/2" nipple after the gas valve. That you tape. It will then take a 1/2" cap.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-26-11, 04:54 PM
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Thanks for the help. I thought I might have to remove that one fitting. I tried briefly to remove it but it's stuck on there pretty good and I don't have a lot of room to get leverage (that blue thing on the left is the water softener) and it seriously impedes my turning efforts. Maybe a good dose of WD-40 and a pipe wrench will do the trick. I just have to be careful since the whole works moves around as I'm messing with it.
 
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Old 10-26-11, 05:18 PM
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You can also remove the nipple if that is easier and use a plug instead of a cap.
 
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Old 10-26-11, 06:04 PM
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Two channel locks. One to hold and one to turn.

Not sure a plug is code from what I remember. (Could be wrong, but not sure if you can plug a gas valve) I would just cap it.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-26-11, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by lawrosa View Post
Not sure a plug is code from what I remember. (Could be wrong, but not sure if you can plug a gas valve) I would just cap it.

Mike NJ
Dang, and I think I read that here and didn't remember. Ignore suggestion.
 
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Old 10-26-11, 09:19 PM
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Nothing wrong with a plug, in fact it removes one threaded joint. I personally would use a machined or forged plug rather than a cast plug. The easiest (if you can find one) is to use the proper size flare cap. You need to clean all that gunk off the flare fitting first if you find the proper cap. I can pretty much guarantee you won't find a flare cap at the mega-mart homecenter.
 
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Old 10-27-11, 04:50 PM
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WD-40 won't do much for you. PB Blaster is the stuff to go for if there is rust involved. Chances are it is just properly fit and you need to get some leverage on it. I don't know what it looks like above the picture, but you may need to just cap it higher up.
 
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Old 10-27-11, 04:59 PM
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I was finally able to get that bottom fitting off. I did give it a squirt with WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes. I put some vice grips on the small length of pipe just above the fitting and used a pipe wrench to loosen the fitting (had to put a little bit of oomph into it!). Then used channel locks until I could unscrew it by hand. A little tricky since I probably only had about a foot of room to work in between the water softener and furnace. Then capped it off with a 1/2" cap. I couldn't go any higher up on the pipe. That first fitting above the valve has a line coming out the back that runs back and into the wall.
 
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Old 10-27-11, 06:16 PM
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I was finally able to get that bottom fitting off
Good job!!!!

Mike NJ...................
 
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Old 10-29-11, 06:19 AM
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I did give it a squirt with WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes.
The next time you find a similar situation, penetrating oil might help a bit. WD-40 is a poor, at best, penetrant. PB Blaster is a good one, but there are other good ones out there too. I like LPS-2 as well as PB Blaster.

International Distributor: LPS Labs, MRO Solutions, Lubricants, Penetrants
 
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