Correct way to pipe this for washing machine / laundry sink

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Old 02-22-13, 10:07 AM
J
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Correct way to pipe this for washing machine / laundry sink

Hello guys. Could use some advice on the best/right way to set this up. Pics included. My old sink/metal cabinet setup was completely rusted so I removed it. Upon inspection of the pipe it was rusted going down in the drain pipe so I removed all of it. It just lifted out of the drain on the floor. So now I'm left with setting it up and running some pipe.
Background - this drain does not seem to go to the septic tank as all the other waste pipes do. You can see the septic line 4 feet above. I believe this goes to a dry well under the driveway. It is a 2 inch pipe that a 2 inch donut fits into snugly.
The old setup there was the black flexible drain pipe from the washing machine that went directly into the piping, not into the sink. Also there was a heavy black hose going up 7 feet and ending in the beams below the ceiling. I'm assuming this was some form of a vent (however it was not venting out side)

Idealy I'd like to drain right into the pipe as opposed to the sink if thats allowed.
I plan on putting a counter top from the shelves on the right all the way to the washing machine on the left. Then cut out a section to put a drop in plastic laundry sink. I'd rather not cut another hole into it to rune the washing machine's drain pipe into the sink. But I will do whatever is best/correct. Its the laundry room and I don't care too much about how its looks.
 
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Old 02-22-13, 11:38 AM
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Are you installing another sink? Could not tell buy your post.....

If so drain the washer to the sink. I would still use that drywell unless there are issues with it. You would need to vent the sink with a studor vent.

If your wanting to tap into the septic line then a pumped system is the best approach. The pump system gets vented.
 
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Old 02-22-13, 12:20 PM
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thanks for the quick reply lawrosa. I am putting another sink in. One of those plastic large laundry sinks.
I am planing to use the existing drain into the drywell. No plans on tapping into the septic tank.

So knowing I'm adding a sink with a p trap into the existing 2 inch drain going to the drywell I should -

Drain the laundry into the sink like the yellow line in the picture below? No way to tap into the plumbing i'm going to have below the sink, like the black line in picture? Kind of like a dish washer drain branches into the kitchen sink plumbing. Why couldn't I go directly into the plumbing below? Is there something against code.

I will look at studor vents as I am unfamiliar with these. I don't believe there are any vents on the pipe going to the drywell. The only thing I think that goes tot he drywell is the basement sink and washingmachine. There are a bunch of vents with the septic tank plumbing.
 
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Old 02-22-13, 02:13 PM
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You do not want to tap into the line with the washer. It floods or may flood the pipe and not drain. The sink acts as a buffer. Plus it gives the required air gap. Its just all around better. If the line backed up the sink would hold the water if it backed up and not flood the basement.


You want to pipe like this. But you want to raise the studor vent 3ft above the flood plane of the sink.




Here is another one. Again these show to put the AAV as high as possible but put it 3 ft above the flood plane of the sink. You can do this because your all open doen there.


 

Last edited by lawrosa; 02-22-13 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 02-22-13, 04:05 PM
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Thank You Lawrosa. I'll empty the washing machine drain hose into the sink. Seems like the easiest and best way.

I'm curious though if you have a second to explain. If I choose to attach the drain hose somewhere above the p trap of the sinks drainage system, how would this be different than how my dishwasher is hooked up to my kitchen sink. And if the piping i used is 2" should it not drain fine.


thanks again and enjoy your weekend.
 
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Old 02-22-13, 04:34 PM
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With most washing machines you need to have the drain hose rise to the top of the cabinet before it drops down. The reason is that otherwise the tub will never fill but just drain as fast as the water enters. You can't just bring the hose up and then down again as it is likely to siphon. That is one reason why the drain hoses have the curve and are as short as they are.
 
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Old 02-22-13, 04:43 PM
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Code requires a standpipe for the washer of at least 18" if you do not dump into a laundry sink.
 
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Old 02-22-13, 06:46 PM
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Got it. Last question- can you just confirm the mock up diagram below is okay piping for what I need to do. There will be 2 90 degree elbows at the bottom so I can get the pipe against the back wall. If I don't do this and run the 2 inch pipe straight up with the studor vent on top it will be a foot out from the wall.
 
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Old 02-22-13, 07:30 PM
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I would suggest two 45 degree bends rather than the two 90 degree bends if it won't cause any other problems. Much less chance of clogging from lint and such. Also much easier to snake if that ever arises.
 
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Old 02-24-13, 03:39 PM
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Just want some conformation that this was done okay. Nothing illegal or dangerous.

Draining into sink as recommended. Sinks trap is 1.5" so I used 1.5" pvc the whole way. Connect to cast iron pipe in the floor with a 2"to 1.5" donut. Bought the 6 dollar air inlet valve not the 25 dollar one next to it. Got the air inlet valve about 18" above the sink, septic line go in the way.

Using the old rubber high pressure hoses. Should I drop 35 bucks for a set of metal braided ones?
 
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Old 02-24-13, 04:27 PM
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I would buy the braided hoses. Those are definitely worth the investment.

I have the one handle shut off valve too - but no one stands around waiting for the washer to finish to turn the valve off.
 
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