Peculiar Gas Pipe Termination

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Old 06-09-13, 07:15 PM
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Peculiar Gas Pipe Termination

I'm trying to set up a gas drier; when I went to hook up the gas, the fixture at the end of the black iron was somewhat peculiar. It looks like a nozzle for a rubber hose, which has had an additional piece cemented on the end. That much of it was there when the wall was painted. Later a cap was added. This used to be a rent house so no telling who installed this. Should I remove the whole thing and re-start at the black iron?


 
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Old 06-09-13, 07:33 PM
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Old gas space heaters were conected with a clocth covered rubber hose that slipped over the valve. The valves also has an 1/8" NP male thread at the end. That is what the other part is screwed on to. The valve is not suitable for use with a dryer and the older ones can leak around the handle so they are usually not code. If the pipe is half inch I believe it is too small.

You need to at least change the valve. The 1/2" pipe may work but the actual size for BTUs required needs to be calculated. http://www.newark.org/images/uploads...llationnew.pdf
 
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Old 06-09-13, 07:43 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

That looks like an old valve where the rubber hose was connected to a Bunsen Burner.
And that cap looks very code compliant

You'll want to turn off the gas first and then replace that valve with a new 1/2" one.

Ray has flying fingers tonight. In most applications 1/2" pipe should be ok for a dryer.
 
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Old 06-09-13, 07:46 PM
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The washer/drier are in a utility closet with access from the carport; the room has no connection to the house. So I think it's unlikely there was ever a space heater here. (I'm in Texas, we don't heat our garages, much less our carports.) I suspect someone was being creative with the parts they had on hand.

The external diameter of the pipe is about 7/8 inch. Not sure about the interior.
 
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Old 06-09-13, 07:50 PM
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The drier manual says it needs 22,000 BTUs/hour.

Also, *was* a rental, but I bought it from my landlords. It's my problem now
 
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Old 06-09-13, 07:54 PM
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I'm in Texas and that is the type of gas jet in every room of my house. However the heaters are hooked to the 1/8" NPM not with hoses. Your right about jerry rigging. I doubt that 1/8" opening would pass enough gas for a dryer.
 
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Old 06-09-13, 08:13 PM
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Ray.....what did they do...... glue or epoxy those brass fittings on ?
 
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Old 06-09-13, 08:47 PM
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No, they are threaded on. There is an 1/8" thread at the very end that is hidden by the fitting.

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Old 06-09-13, 09:20 PM
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That's actually pretty cool looking. Haven't seen something like that around here since my high school days and the bunsen burners in the lab.
 
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Old 06-15-13, 11:50 AM
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So, I've finally had the chance to get back on this. I bought a new shutoff valve to attach to the black iron - the correct one, I'm hoping.

But I can't operate shutoff at the gas meter. With an 8" crescent wrench, pushing with both hands with my back braced against the wall, it doesn't budge at all.

Is this the point where I give up and call a plumber?
 
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Old 06-15-13, 12:37 PM
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Cheater handle or 12" monkey wrench or 12" pipe wrench.
 
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Old 06-15-13, 04:08 PM
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Tried a 15" crescent and gave it a good tug. No go.

Are there any lubricants that are safe to use on this valve?
 
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Old 06-15-13, 04:19 PM
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No gas valve guy....but do they turn like normal? lefty loosey, righty tighty?
 
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Old 06-15-13, 04:47 PM
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Most sources I've found say it's a clockwise turn to turn off.

This is the valve. You can see the tool marks from previous turns. I guess I'm not the first.

 
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Old 06-15-13, 04:54 PM
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Call your gas company - they may shut it off for you,or replace the main valve so it works.
 
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Old 06-15-13, 05:15 PM
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Some are a 90 turn. Looking at it you may see the stop and use that as a direction guide.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 06-15-13 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Clarify.
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Old 06-15-13, 05:54 PM
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Most of those valves only move 90 degrees and only in one direction. Look closely at the valve plug (the moving part) to be certain you are attempting to move it the correct direction.

On the side opposite the handle there is a big nut. Loosen the nut one turn. Do NOT remove the nut. While protecting the threads the nut turns on hit the nut end with a big hammer. This should allow the plug to break free of the body and the valve be turned easily. Give the handle end a tap with the wrench or hammer and then snug up the nut.

Do your work and then re-open the valve. If necessary use the above method to do so and when open you can again tap the handle end to re-seat the plug and then tighten up the nut. Check the entire valve for leaks using either a soap suds solution or a commercial gas leak detection liquid.

Then call the gas company and have them come lubricate the valve.
 
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