Moving a vanity drain line

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Old 08-10-13, 08:52 AM
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Moving a vanity drain line

I'm doing a bath remodel and want to move a drain and supplies to the center of the new vanity. It is a first floor room with an unfinished basement below and easy access to all existing fittings. The supplies are no problem. It's the drain/vent that concerns me. Red arrow shows approx. location of new drain line.
Issue # 1: I'm reluctant to cut 4 studs to move the 2" drain line. Is that ok?

Issue #2: How will I joint the new horitontal drain line in the wall to the wye (blue arrow)?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Ken
 
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Old 08-10-13, 09:10 AM
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Whats going to happen to the drain line thats in the floor? Are you leaving it? Will the new vanity cover it?

You can extend the pipe from that sanitary tee but need to cut the ell off and have enough pipe to fit a coupling.

The other issue is to get a 33" piece of pipe in there... You will need to piece it.

And you need to drill holes 2".. Most do not have a right angle drill let alone the bits...

If the vanity covers everything I would extend whats there under the vanity... Put an ell at the blue arrow after the vanity is installed and pipe to where you need to be...

Hope that helps...
 
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Old 08-10-13, 09:44 AM
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Lawrose, thanks for the quick reply. I do have a right angle drill and hole saw but I need ~ 7 1/2" of clearance between stud bays in order to drill. Only the first stud bay on the left is wide enough.
I don't follow your suggestion to "Put an ell at the blue arrow after the vanity is installed and pipe to where you need to be..." Are you suggesting that I run the 2" pvc from the ell to where it needs to go by routing it inside the vanity? If so, that won't work . I have less than 2" between the backs of the drawers on the right side and the back of the vanity.

Thanks again for your help.
 
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Old 08-10-13, 11:20 AM
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Why were these supply's and drains not run up through the bottom plate instead of out in the floor?
Not even code in my area to do it that way.
The studs can be cut with a ciruler saw and the piece knocked out with a hammer.
Install the pipe then install some of theses.

wall stud support - Bing Images
 
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Old 08-10-13, 11:49 AM
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Joe, I have no idea why. Every sink in this house is the same so I assume it was up to code at the time (21 yrs ago). I'm a little worried about cutting away almost 60% of those studs (2"). The wall on the opposite side is 18 ft high (2 story living room) and I'm afraid cutting 6 studs might weaken the wall too much.
 
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Old 08-10-13, 02:24 PM
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OK then you will need to go in attic and move vent in that bay that you want, then drill hole in plate and re-pipe in basement......


I dont think you want to cut those studs as joe suggests... I will alert one of the carpenter mods to take a look at this... Stand by please...
 
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Old 08-10-13, 03:50 PM
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"you will need to go in attic and move vent in that bay that you want"

I'm not sure if that will work. Did you notice in my reply to Joe that the wall in question is 18' from floor to attic. The chances of there being on open bay all the way to the attic is slim. It's looking like I'm screwed !
 
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Old 08-10-13, 04:20 PM
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I think the metal brackets are an acceptable solution for normal stud bays...seems like I've seen them mentioned before. You need to put a nail in every hole though...and that would be impossible in your situation.
 
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Old 08-10-13, 04:54 PM
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I wouldn't want to cut into that many studs on a wall like that.

It may not be the best idea aesthetically, but you could build out the wall with another set of 2x4s that would be framed around the new piping. You'll lose a few inches in the bathroom, but may be a solution.
 
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Old 08-10-13, 05:10 PM
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that the wall in question is 18' from floor to attic. The chances of there being on open bay all the way to the attic is slim. It's looking like I'm screwed
Im sure its open... If there is a floor above then then you need to opn the wall at the upper and lower plates and drill holes..

Use a feeler bit to drill test holds so you know where to come up....

You may noy have to go to the attic and just open the wall on the floor above if there is one....


Or pull the draw out of the vanity and make it shorter... Done it many a times...

Its what you want to do and how much work you want to do to correct it...

I would not cut those studs and probably not even drill them... Too much wood removed IMO...

Work smarter not harder....
 
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Old 08-10-13, 05:29 PM
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I have to ask...isn't that considered a wet vent and not allowed?
 
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Old 08-10-13, 05:59 PM
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I have to ask...isn't that considered a wet vent and not allowed?
That pipe is dry and goes all the way to the attic.... He needs to move it all over to the bay he needs..

Cut in attic..... cut in basement....drill new holes and run pipe...reconnect with proper pitch....

Shortening a drawer and running in the vanity is far better IMO....
 
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Old 08-10-13, 06:04 PM
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Ok thanks Mike...I guess I was just thinking there might be another fixture draining in from above since he said it was 18'. Made me think another bathroom on a second floor.
 
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Old 08-10-13, 06:35 PM
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If something does drain from above then he has other issues...Then yes it would be a wet vent and not to code...
 
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Old 08-10-13, 07:37 PM
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The only option I can think of aside from the braces is to cut the 2x4's high enough to install a header and jacks on either side to support the entire wall, then plate the bottom parts of the studs, leaving an opening laterally across the affected area. I have seen the braces used, but only in a couple of stud bays. Not sure of their weight holding capability across the span of 6 studs. Likewise, I will research Simpsons site to see what is up.
 
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Old 08-10-13, 07:44 PM
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Why all those studs close togther larry???? Holding something up????
 
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Old 08-10-13, 08:02 PM
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The group on the left, next to the red arrow is an intersecting wall. With 33" between the two studs, I have no idea why the doubles are there, unless a wall ends and turns above this point on another floor. The last stud to the right of the plumbing was to make a plumber happy??? Not sure.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 07:33 AM
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First of all, my thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. I appreciate your help and input.
Talk about opening Pandora's Box - I thought this would be a fairly easy project!
I ran a fish tape up the open stud bays and hit a stop in all areas at 9 ft. above FFL. Even though the living room has an unbroken 18 ft wall opposite the bath, there must be a top plate half way up. That will make running a new vent from the attic very difficult.
The option of building a false wall might just be my best answer. The counter top is going to be a custom piece of marble so I would just have a counter top that is 4" deeper than the vanity.
Let me throw out one other completely hair brained idea. This probably won't work, is not up to code or both but here goes:
Why not cap the existing drain as it enters the vent/drain stack? In the basement, replace the ell with a T or wye and run my new drain up the stud bay from the basement.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 07:58 AM
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You may have opened a Pandora's box, but you got a plumber and several other trades involved without any cost. How cool is that? Mike will chime in shortly, but the vent cannot be part of the drain as it will be if you change the ell for a wye. Hang in for his expertise. I just tried to give an alternative as to the framing.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 09:15 AM
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You will have to look up code on that... It looks plausible but in my plumbing carrer I dont remember ever doing as you show... Usually if I never done it that way there probably is a reason...( Like not to code)...

The are so many codes to remember in plumbing I cant remember all off top of my head... And I dont want to say its ok unless I know for sure...

Here are the codes... Look through and see what you find... Type venting as a search... I dont have time now... Just stopped home for a few and need to run out again...

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pl...ing-codes.html
 
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Old 08-11-13, 06:49 PM
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Mike (Lawrosa) is definitely the expert, I just play a plumber on TV (or these forums)

I don't think your drawing will work. As far as I know, you need to have a vent before you have a vertical drop. That vertical drop directly after the P Trap will cause siphoning (and gurgling and other bad things) that the vent is specifically supposed to prevent. While you are allowed a few feet for the 'trap arm', it has to be horizontal (horizontal with the standard drop of course).

You may be able to do something like that with an AAV. You'd have to check your local codes, some places don't allow them and others are strict on their usage. I would probably go with the built-out wall, an extra square foot or two of counter space is always appreciated in a bath!

-Mike
 
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