moving toilet drain and need some help!

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Old 09-22-13, 09:38 PM
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moving toilet drain and need some help!

I have been endlessly searching forums and reading my local codes to make sure my plan for the drains will be functional and to code.

I have a diagram attached that shows the visual of what I am trying to do, but ill describe as well to add clarity.

basically the old toilet location is being moved to the other side of the bath room about 11-ish feet away. I have calculated the required slope and that is not a problem. Where I am stuck now is the current sink and shower drain run perpendicular to the joists which is right in the path of the new toilet drain pipe. I see no way around this, so I think my only option is to tie the shower/sink drains into the toilet drain then cap off the old sink/shower drain that will no longer be used. As far as I can find in the VA codes - you can drain a sink/shower into a toilet drain pipe and other forums say its no issues since all pipes connect up in the system anyway. I am not clear on the number of drains I can connect up to the 3in pipe, or if this is something to worry about. My plan is to use a 3"x3"x2" tee and splice the existing shower/sink 2" drain into the new 3" toilet drain pipe. I would then of course cap off the 2" pipe that was used for the sink and shower drain.

Does this setup look right, any suggestions? And I can't quite figure out if the 1.5" vent will be fine, I guess the sink drain would be considered a wet vent for the toilet and that is a 2" pipe, but does the 2" pipe have to go all the way through the p-trap? Right now the trap and sink drains (2 of them) going into the wall is 1.5" and is connected to a "+" coupler with a 2" drain down and 1.5" up for the vent.

Thank you for your time! I appreciate any help that I can get.
 
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Old 09-22-13, 09:45 PM
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My plan is to use a 3"x3"x2" tee
Looks good...

Must Be a Y though... No tees..... All connections to all pipes in your drawing must be Y's..

Additionally the dual sinks must be connected with a combination double fixture fitting only....

Also that capped line must be cur to the old main stack line then capped. You cant leave arms that are dead.

Let us know if this makes sense.
 
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Old 09-23-13, 08:52 AM
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Thanks for the reply. The "tee" I was looking to use is this: NIBCO 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in. PVC DWV All-Hub Sanitary Tee-C4811 at The Home Depot

But your saying i need to use something like this, correct?:
Mueller Streamline 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in. PVC DWV 45-Degree Hub x Hub x Hub Wye-05828H at The Home Depot

Do I then use a 45 elbow to make the full 90 degree turn?

The dual sink and vent is existing work, my house is only 10yrs old, so i probably just described it wrong because I haven't actually seen the couplers behind the wall... was just guessing -- so ill assume that is done correctly.

And the only issue is the capping off then, the branch I plan to cap connects to the main branch (labeled as "to main stack" on the diagram) that is under neath my bedroom floor (not inside of the bath room. Is there anything else I could do with that unused branch? -- It would be a considerable PITA to cut into the flooring of the bedroom in order to cut off at the main branch.

Thanks again for the fast reply!
 
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Old 09-23-13, 10:22 AM
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But your saying i need to use something like this, correct?:
Mueller Streamline 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in. PVC DWV 45-Degree Hub x Hub x Hub Wye-05828H at The Home Depot

Do I then use a 45 elbow to make the full 90 degree turn?
Yes and yes... A st 45 if you like.


It would be a considerable PITA to cut into the flooring of the bedroom in order to cut off at the main branch.

No crawl or basement?
 
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Old 09-23-13, 01:28 PM
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Ok. perfect.

Yeah the only other access point would be the kitchen ceiling, which i suppose would be easier than hacking up the sub floor under the carpet.

If I have to do this to stay in code I guess this has to happen... an inspector would likely fail this if I cap off the 2in branch? Also, would I need to remove the y on the main branch and couple it back together? or can I just cap off the 2" pipe as close as possible to the main branch (labeled "to main stack" on the diagram)?
 
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Old 09-23-13, 03:28 PM
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I will reply more later but how did you get the new 3" line to the new location?

I will mod your drawing later. I have a few things to do...

Yes you are not supposed to leave any dead ends....Most cut off near the main and make it a clean out. You can leave the pipe in the ceiling..Just cut it near the main if that reqires only a small hole in ceiling.
 
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Old 09-23-13, 03:49 PM
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Well, I havent installed that new 3" line yet, this work will be done this weekend. I had some bad areas in the subfloor (water damage) so i decided to just pull up the subfloor in the bathroom since I am laying down tile. The plan was to contain all the work to the bathroom instead of having to tear up large amounts of drywall in the kitchen.

I think this will still work, I will have to remove a much smaller area of ceiling in the kitchen to cap off that sink drain right at the main branch. I will take a peek in the ceiling tonight (I have a optical camera) to make sure the 2" drain is in fact accessible.
 
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Old 09-23-13, 05:52 PM
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Ok, I got a look into the next joist over and I have modified the diagram (attached to post).

The 2" sink and shower drain pipe extends all the way to the 90 degree bend for the old toilet location - it looks like a 3x3x2 Y (highlighted on the attached diagram).

So, to do this properly ill cut a panel into the kitchen ceiling to access the highlighted 3x3x2 Y pipe (labeled "cap off"). And ill cut with maybe 3in left on the 2" pipe and install a cap at the end. Does that make sense?

Will the inspector need to see this before I patch the ceiling? or i suppose he wouldnt even know I had to cap this off.
 
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