Piping size from pressure tank to softener and to house

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Old 12-02-13, 06:05 PM
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Question Piping size from pressure tank to softener and to house

I have a 1" line from my well to the pressure tank on one side of the tank tee. The tank is 44 gal with a 30/50 pressure switch and the bladder is set to 28 psi. I have a 1" line going back out to a frost free valve by the barn. I have it check valve on the supply line before it comes into the tank and a check valve on the line going to the valve by the barn. Both have shut off valves. The tank tee is 1-1/4" in size with two 5/8 (I think that is the correct size) on the face. On fitting has a 1/2" tee with a faucet and a relief valve. The other is the supply to the house. This is my issue. Should I reduce the size to 3/4" and run it to the softener then have the out to the rest of the house which is 3/4" or run the full 5/8" to the softener then reduce it down to 3/4" on the discharge side. I know I'm going to loose pressure through the softener but if I increase the flow in and reduce the size on the discharge won't it keep the pressure higher? The house is a two story with a full bath on the second floor. All the rest of the water demand is on the first floor. Maybe I'm over thinking the issue just want to make sure I have enough flow.
 
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Old 12-02-13, 06:31 PM
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A 3/4" line will have about double the available CFM of a 1/2 line. The more flow more pressure will be available.
The point is keeping the line as large as reasonably possible for as long as possible will pay off when someone trying to take a shower and someone else flushes the toilet.
I've never heard of a 5/8 plumbing pipe or fittings.
National Standard Taper Pipe Threads Size NPT Chart - Engineers Edge
 
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Old 12-02-13, 06:55 PM
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It looks like all the piping up to the water heater is 3/4 inch with the split off to the devices 1/2".
 
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Old 12-05-13, 07:36 PM
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Dean I’m no plumber but I’ve done a lot with my well system, including adding an Acid Neutralizer tank, tank tee, switches, gauges, drain, etc. It sounds like you have a very unusual setup. If I understand correctly, using the following as a reference:

[http://www.completeplumbingsource.co...50bs-10872.pdf
and item CIC3125B under “Short Cast Crosses with 2 drain and 2 top ports” plus the diagram at the very top of that document]

You have a one inch well supply pipe coming into one “Leg Connection” of the tank tee, and a 1” pipe coming out of the other “Leg Connection” of the tank tee going to the frost-free sillcock. Then one of the ¾ inch “Drain Ports” on the tank tee is connected to the supply pipe to the house. I don’t think that is standard but it seems like it would work, and apparently it does work in your case.

But I believe usually you would have the 1” pipe coming out on the “Leg Connection” of the tank tee going to the house, not going to a sillcock. You would then insert an additional 1“ tee on that pipe coming out of the tank-tee, with the “run” continuing to the house and the “bull” going to the sillcock. At least I think that’s how it would be done if you want to branch off to a sillcock after the pressure tank but before going to the rest of the house.

Plumbing Fittings Direct ~ How Tees are Measured

But bottom line, if the pipe to your house is coming out of a “Drain Port” on the tank-tee it is already reduced down to ¾”. However, I would run the full 1” to the softener coming out of the tank-tee. I agree with Joe. I would only reduce when you have to, that way you get the best flow through the softener. That’s what I did with my AN Filter.

Good luck!

btw – the O.D. on a copper pipe is 1/8 larger than the nominal pipe size. So a copper pipe with an O.D. of 7/8 is a ¾ pipe, one with an O.D of 1 1/8 is a 1 inch pipe, one with an O.D. of 5/8 is a ½ inch pipe, etc.
 
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