Changing tub spout from slip on to screw on


Old 01-19-14, 07:22 AM
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Changing tub spout from slip on to screw on

Am changing bathroom fixtures from chrome to oil rubbed bronze. Staying with Moen to so I do not have to change any valves in the wall for the cartridge/handles for the shower tub.

For the tub spout - currently have slip on spout and need to change out to screw on (Moen 82008BRB). Both spouts are plastic.

I guess I need to measure and ensure distance is exact from the wall to the end of the copper pipe with some kind of fitting I need to solder on at the end (male adapter? - will have to solder on to copper pipe coming out of wall and the other end will have threads that new spout will screw onto)

1. How do I cut the copper pipe - hack saw or use tube cutter?
2. How far does the male adapter (or whatever ever it is called) need to be threaded into the brass fitting in the spout) - the brass fitting in the spout is 5/8 " long/deep. Am trying to figure out EXACTLY how long the pipe needs to be from edge of wall to outer tip of fitting spout screws into.
3. Use pipe tape on male adapter that threads into fitting in spout - how many wraps?
4. Need some specific info about soldering step by step - have seen it done once or twice but have never done it. I have small propane torch. What kind of solder, use flux - put flux on what, etc.
5. Any other advice?

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Old 01-19-14, 08:25 AM
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1. You can use either but the tubing cutter will probably give you a straighter, cleaner cut. If you use a hack saw make sure you debur the pipe.

2. NPT threads are tapered so the point where it seals and comes up tight is a bit variable. I use a tape measure and stick it in the spout to measure from the face of the threaded attach point to the edge of the spout. Then I cut the tubing so it protrudes from the wall the same amount and sometimes 1/16" shorter. When you slip on the fitting make sure it goes all the way on. There should be a little step inside the fitting and slide it on until it hits the tubing.

3. I start with a couple wraps. Try putting the spout on. If you're lucky it gets real tight with the spout aimed down and the base is touching the wall. If the spout ends up pointed somewhere else and I don't think I can tighten it to the right direction I take it off and add more tape, trying to get it to become tight when the spout is properly oriented.

4. Most home centers sell the correct solder and flux in the plumbing dept and there are a lot of instructions on the web so I'll just add a few key points. Get the pipe and inside of the fitting very shiny and clean with fine sandpaper or pipe cleaning tools and do not wipe off with your hand. You want absolutely shiny, clean copper with no oils or dirt from your skin. Apply a thin smearing of flux to the inside of the fitting and outside of the pipe. Slide the fitting on all the way.

5. Have something like pliers handy when soldering to insure the fitting is pushed on completely when soldering. Put something in the tub below to catch any drops of molten solder. Aim your torch at the fitting. You will see the fitting sorta change color. You want that color to go all the way around to the back side of the fitting. Then try touching your solder to where the fitting and pipe meet. If hot enough the solder will melt and get magically sucked into the joint. If the solder beads and sits there the pipe was not clean enough or it's not yet hot enough. Then wait for the fitting to cool before trying to apply your teflon tape so you don't burn your hands.
Old 01-19-14, 09:37 AM
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Link to installation instructions for your unit. Section 4.3 gives a diagram of how to figure out the length of the pipe. If you have access to the back to view the pipes, you can see if your current is a screw in to a threaded drop elbow or a soldered elbow in the wall. Looks like you measure the distance to the threads on the spout and add 1/4" to get your overall measurement.
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