Drain for water softener

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Old 02-08-14, 06:44 PM
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Drain for water softener

Hi,

I am installing a water softener in the basement of my home which was built in 2011. There is not any apparent drain location, and the sump pump is across a finished part of the basement so very difficult to access (and I don't really want to ruin the sump pump with salty water anyway). So, I appreciate guidance on the following options.

1 - The softener manual says the discharge line can run up to 8' above the unit. This would allow me to try to run the line through an existing punch-out in the floor above the softener and to a laundry room, in to a utility tub. I'm just not comfortable that running the discharge upward won't reduce the life of the softener.

2 - There is an end-of-line 3" sewer cleanout sticking up out of the slab in the basement near where I want to put the softener. I could add a tee to this, preserving the function of the cleanout, but also adding a standpipe connected to a p-trap. The issue here would be venting.

3 - There is a powder room in the basement, which has a sink that ties into the sewer line and is vented up through the roof. Tying in to this seems to be the most proper connection, but I'm unsure if I should tie-in above or below the sink drain. This is also the most complicated install in my opinion.

Thanks!



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Old 02-08-14, 06:58 PM
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Hello and welcome...

You need an air gap... Is there a way to get to the downstairs sink underneath??

If you have the room you can put a dishwasher tailpiece under there..

I would not use the clean out, and I would not go up as you say... You lose back-washing capacity I believe...
 

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Old 02-08-14, 07:11 PM
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Thank you. I can get underneath the sink fairly easily. However I'm unfamiliar with the term "rook". Could you explain?

I can also easily access the sink plumbing behind the powder room wall as that side of the wall is in an unfinished part of the basement (studs and plumbing exposed).

Additionally, could you let me know what the concerns are with using the cleanout?

Sorry for asking this amount do detail - undergrad engineering curiosity kicking in!
 
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Old 02-08-14, 07:24 PM
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However I'm unfamiliar with the term "rook".
Room...LOL

let me know what the concerns are with using the cleanout?

No vent for the clean out... You may be able to use a studor vent...

But if you have the room install an 1 1/4 branch tail piece...

Example....

1-1/4X8 BRANCH TAILPIECE by Plumb Pak/keeney Mfg - 440516 - More Pvc Dishwasher Connections at doitbest.com

If no room ditch the pop up and install a threaded 1 1'4 branch tail piece...

Sweat Branch Tailpiece, 1/4" x 8" (PP163SSN) at Aubuchon Hardware

Last depending how the plumbing is in the back you can install either a double fixture fitting for the sink and out the other end pipe a washer stand pipe with trap.... The vent covers both fixtures...

P500-020 - Spears P500-020 - 2" PVC DWV Double Fixture Fitting

Or just cut into the sink vent and install a washer stand pipe , but then you will need to vent it by tieing the vent back up into the sink vent 3 ft above the flood plane...

If you take a pic and post of the plumbing I can draw something up....
 
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Old 02-09-14, 06:28 AM
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Thank you again, lawrosa!

Below is the set-up behind the powder room:

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And this is the trap under the sink in the powder room:

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I'd prefer to modify the set-up in the unfinished area anyway since that is where the water softener will go, and will leave the finished powder room undisturbed.

The double fixture would be a very elegant solution, assuming it wouldn't violate code. I could replace the 1.5" tee that currently goes to the sink with a double tee, with each outlet offset by 90 degrees (if such a fitting is available). Then, add a standpipe with its own trap. I wouldn't see much risk of using both the standpipe and the sink at the same time, as the water softener supposedly regenerates overnight.

If that's the right approach, is there a way to remove the existing tee without cutting? It looks to be glued. Or, would I need to cut it out and replace with couplings and the new double tee?

I appreciate any additional guidance you have on this!
 
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Old 02-09-14, 06:52 AM
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Yes a double fixure fitting is a good choice and to code...

Just make sure its a double fixture fitting and not a double san tee... There is a difference...


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If that's the right approach, is there a way to remove the existing tee without cutting? It looks to be glued. Or, would I need to cut it out and replace with couplings and the new double tee?

Yes you will need to cut it out...

If you do it right you will only need two couplings...

Use no hubs with the band....

LDR Industries 2 in. x 2 in. PVC FPT x FPT No-Hub Coupling-808 cNHC-200 at The Home Depot
 
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Old 02-09-14, 07:08 AM
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Thanks. Great information!
 
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Old 02-09-14, 10:53 AM
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Great... Let us know how it goes with pics of the finished product....
 
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