Washing Machine Drain

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Old 03-06-14, 08:30 AM
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Washing Machine Drain

I have an existing utility sink. The drain has your standard brass tailpiece and "J" trap connected to a cast iron horizontal (Together makes a P Trap)that goes to a cast iron vent stack. Next to the Sink, there is a clothes washer, and the drainage hose goes up and over to the the wash basin of the sink. I would like to take the drainage hose and connect it directly to the drainage system of the house.

I really don't want to have to mess with the cast-iron stack and was thinking about going to the the drain pipes for the sink (either in the Tail piece, or the P trap). I've seen dishwasher wye tailpieces for sale (obviously used for dishwashers going into kitchen sinks). Is it acceptable to use a dishwasher wye tailpiece for drainage of a washing machine? While searching through the various forums regarding washing machine drainage I have not seen anyone condone or reject this as a possibility.
 
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Old 03-06-14, 09:16 AM
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hi mfwatkin -

Just a newbie here. One of the plumbers/experts will be along I'm sure. But, I'm pretty sure by Plumbing Code a washing machine is required to have a 2 inch drain. Wouldn't the sink drain be smaller than that?

Need to hear what the experts say.
 
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Old 03-06-14, 09:27 AM
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As zoe states just keep it draining into the sink. What reason are you moving it?

Even if you tied it in as a DW with an air gap what benefit will you get?

You could make a separate drain with a stand pipe but then you will get into venting issues. As it sounds now the sink probably is not vented. But don't know..

Pics would help...

The old saying is " leave well enough alone"
 
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Old 03-06-14, 10:58 AM
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This link shows how to connect to a sink's pipes. Scroll down to "Using Existing Waste Pipe".

Connecting a washing machine or dishwasher to the water supply and drainage
 
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Old 03-06-14, 04:53 PM
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Thanks to all for the input so far.

The sink that I have is an old stone-mason sink (probably original from 1953). The sink works fine as a sink. The volume of water from the spigot is not enough to cause any back-up. The the drainage from the washer is a different story. It almost always causes a backup, usually un-comfortably close to over-flowing (It has overflowed twice now). I have used plungers and pipe snakes to try in clear the drain pipes, but have not found much in the way of blockage.


The sink is a double-bason with only one spigot that pivots. So there are two drains that go to one drain flange. When the water is draining on one bason the other drain acts as a vent. When the washer drains the volume is usually too much and it will back up into the other bason.

I think the problem is the fact that the sink venting situation is inadequte. My thought is that if I could tie into the sink drain tailpiece, the sink drains would act as a vent of sorts. If nothing else it would just back up a little bit into the sink.

I'm sure I am way off on this.

The pictures below show the drain pipe under the sink. The brown (rust colored) portion is the flange that ties the two sink drains together.[ATTACH=CONFIG]27883[/ATTACH]
 
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Old 03-06-14, 05:25 PM
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Not a vent issue..

Doing what you propose will improve nothing... Burn out the pump on the washer if anything...

The line needs proper snaking with a cutting bit...
 
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Old 03-06-14, 05:27 PM
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If anything once line is clear get a laundry pump and new sink... The pumps get vented with a studor...

Liberty Pumps : Drain Pumps
 
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Old 03-07-14, 01:17 AM
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That lateral piping from the P-trap to... is galvanized steel, not cast iron. I suspect that it is severely plugged with corrosion and THAT is the primary reason the sinks drain slowly. I would replace that piping all the way to the main drain and then re-evaluate your situation.
 
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Old 03-07-14, 05:22 PM
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Maybe it's the angle of the picture, but the horizontal pipe left of the sink does not appear to slope down to the drain pipe. Have you checked this? Also, just so it's clear, is your goal to drain the washer water quicker, or is it to reroute the washer drain?
 
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Old 03-11-14, 07:45 AM
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So I think it is decided that moving the drain line is not worth while in this case (Would like to drain the water quicker so that I don't have to replace carpeting every time I do a load of wash). Thanks all. Now its a question of fixing the drain. I took an inspection camera and checked out the lateral galvanized drain pipe, and it seems that the only corrosion is where that elbow and lateral pipe mate together. The corrosion seems to take up about 1/4 of the cross-sectional area at that point. The blockage is fairly solid. Is there an easy way to remove this mass without replacing the pipe? My guess is with some kind of drill/Cutting bit on a drill.

To answer Furd's other question, the lateral pipe does have a slight slope to it, kinda hard to tell from that picture though.
 
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