How do I re-attach this drain pipe?

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Old 07-07-14, 01:15 PM
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How do I re-attach this drain pipe?

We're redoing the second-floor bath in our 100-year-old house, reusing most of the existing plumbing. I ripped up the old floor tile, leaving in place the sink supply and drain coming out of the floor. While examining the drain, I noticed that the drain pipe pulled right out of the floor. It was just sitting in another section of pipe below the floor, attached by... not much of anything. There's a lip near the bottom of the pipe, so that only about 3/16" of the pipe goes into the section below (picture attached). Redoing the whole drain is not an option at this point, so I need to know how best to re-attach this piece to the piece below, while minimizing the chances of a leak in the future.

Thanks!
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Old 07-08-14, 02:25 PM
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... any ideas? I was hoping to do this tomorrow. Should I just put some plumber's putty around the lip?
 
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Old 07-08-14, 02:45 PM
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Never seen anything like that. maybe a picture of floor will help. Not a plumber myself.
 
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Old 07-08-14, 03:30 PM
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Looks like it was solderd. Yes can we see the other end??

No nuts I assume?
 
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Old 07-08-14, 04:07 PM
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Being a 100 year old house I suspect it has all lead drainage piping. Re-attaching that will be a difficult job. Did the sink have a trap or is there a drum trap in the floor?
 
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Old 07-11-14, 03:51 PM
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Image of the floor attached. Also, the "lip" near the bottom of the pipe (in the other picture) was just old solder which I melted off yesterday. I don't want to re-solder because (1) I'll never get this old joint clean enough, and (2) I won't have enough clearance for a torch without cutting out most of the floor of the new vanity, which the wife won't like. And I can't solder first and then put in the vanity later, without the same problem of having to cut out most of the floor, because the pipe is part of an S-trap.

I bought some "pipe sealer" lead substitute compound and oakum at the big box yesterday too, but I don't know how I'd use this, because the floor drain is just wide enough to accept the pipe... there's no extra room to put in oakum.

So I'm not really sure what to do... putty? caulk? pipe sealer compound? What would you do?

Thanks!
 
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Old 07-11-14, 04:37 PM
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Ok thanks, I'll see what I can find! The drain pipe is standard 1 1/4", but the pipe in the floor is just slightly wider (just wide enough to accept the 1/14" pipe into it a bit). The second image looks like it's two different widths at the top and bottom... is this what it's designed for?
 
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Old 07-11-14, 07:53 PM
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IMO your looking for trouble.... re solder it or have someone who can....

What material is the pipe in the floor????
 
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Old 07-11-14, 08:29 PM
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Please follow Lawrosa's suggestion.
 
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Old 07-12-14, 02:01 AM
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Mike (Lawrosa) is a professional plumber and he has given you good advice. I might try some other methods such as an epoxy like JB Weld or the like but doing so would be a kludge fix.

I AM concerned when you failed to answer my question about whether the sink had a trap at its outlet OR if there was a drum trap in the floor. If it has a trap at the sink then you have an "S" trap situation and these do not meet code as they can often siphon dry allowing sewer gases to escape from the drain. Even a drum trap in the floor would likely not meet any current code as far as venting.
 
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Old 07-12-14, 05:45 AM
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Ok, thanks. I'll see if I can convince the wife that I need to cut out the bottom of the vanity to solder the pipes. (Obviously the old solder job couldn't have been very good if the pipe just came out when I touched it.)

Yes, there is an S trap. There is no drum trap in the floor. Unfortunately I'm not experienced enough to be able to tell easily what type of metal the pipe in the floor is made of. If the S trap no longer meets code, what could I replace it with?
 
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Old 07-12-14, 10:10 AM
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tell easily what type of metal the pipe in the floor is made of. If the S trap no longer meets code, what could I replace it with?

Scratch the pipe with some emery. Brass probably? Can you look in the basement and see the pipe?

Just reinstall the s trap. To change the plumbing you would need to add a vent, and thats not going to be easy..

Again IMO get someone who can solder. If you use anything else like epoxy, and it leaks, you will be in big trouble. You will not be able to remove the pipe to repair, and will need to get into the floor to replace some piping. Or access from underneath.

What you have now is fixable if you do it right............Try to hodge podge it and it will cost you$$$$$
 
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Old 07-12-14, 11:13 AM
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Soldering it is. (You caught me just in time... I was going to try the pipe sealant compound this afternoon.)

The old pipe in the floor is still dull after scratching for a while with emery. Brass or lead maybe? It's a second floor bath so I can't see much of the pipe beyond the tiny bit you see in the pic. Our main stack is 100-year-old cast iron.
 
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Old 07-12-14, 02:32 PM
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I dont think its lead, but I am curious to what it is...

If I were there I would get a brass trap adapter to fit inside. Then solder it. You will never have to worry about it again for awhile..

Then you can use a tubular trap that will fit inside the nut and washer...

 
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Old 07-12-14, 03:26 PM
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Just for my knowledge would MAPP be hot enough or would you need oxyacetylene?
 
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Old 07-12-14, 04:41 PM
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If its not lead mapp will work fine...Adjustable flow tip ... low and slow...
 
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Old 07-12-14, 07:03 PM
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Awesome. I will look for that adapter. Thanks so much! All I have is a propane torch... I might be upgrading to MAPP if that doesn't do it.
 
 

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