Fed up with cheap multi-turn angle valves


Old 08-28-14, 06:43 PM
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Fed up with cheap multi-turn angle valves

Hi all,

I have a 20 year old house with copper pipes and the handles on 2 undersink angle valves have broken so far. I googled angle valves and some will say that we ask a lot of angle valves, not turning them for 10, 20 years and then expecting them to turn off with little effort. Probably a lot of truth to this but in any case I'd like to replace some of mine with 1/4 turn units. My understanding is that the 1/4 turn sometimes do not fully turn off due to tiny defects in the metal but they are less likely to get stuck and break.

Problem is, the Brasscraft ones the home improvement center carries don't work with the existing copper ferrule on my pipes (I'd rather not remove the existing ferrule). I'll probably go to a pro plumbing shop. It looks like the Watts 1/4 turn will work with existing ferrules. Is this a good way to go for replacement?

I also need a 1" gate valve that has failed (main house shutoff). Is there any preferred brand?

Also, I read some instructions on replacing angle valves and it suggested 2 turns of Teflon tape on the male threads. Is this a good idea?

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Old 08-28-14, 07:08 PM
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with the existing copper ferrule on my pipes
I'm trying to figure out what a copper ferrule is ?

The old style valves use a rubber shaft seal that gets hard and stuck with age.
You're right.... the 1/4 turn valves do seem to always leak a tiny bit of water.
Old 08-28-14, 07:08 PM
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It's not a good idea to use existing ferrule.
Buy yourself a decent puller and remove existing ferrule.
Assuming you can pull old ferrule off:
Use emery cloth to clean pipe and prep surface.
Place compression nut on pipe.
Apply a little pipe dope on inside surface of ferrule, place ferrule on pipe, wipe off any excess pipe dope.
Place valve on pipe and tighten compression nut until it "bites" (doesn't rotate freely).
Once ferrule bites into copper, tighten 1/2 turn or maybe a little more.

Many people prefer to put tape or pipe dope on threads, but this is not where a leak will occur. Leaks start at compression ring. You don't want to over tighten it.

The 1" gate valve can be replaced with a 1/4 turn ball valve.
Old 08-28-14, 07:11 PM
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Ahhhhhh.ok. A brass ferrule from a compression fitting.
Old 09-02-14, 04:16 PM
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Hi, I just caught your post. I have changed quite a few and I very seldom change the ferrule. The times I did was mostly because the threads were different. When you buy a puller get a good one. They sort of look like a C clamp. They are very stout. I was amazed at how easy they pulled off. I couldn't find any signs on the pipe that a valve was even there. But I degress put the valves on any way you want I'm sure they will work. What realy caught my eye was that around every Labor day I do a lot of maintenance task on my properties and one task is to exercise all the valves on the properties. Seems to work.
Good Luck Woodbutcher
Old 09-02-14, 04:27 PM
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Regular turning of a valve is always a good practice. Regardless of the type, but especially globe, gate and common stop valves, one should turn them off fully, turn back on fully then back off about a quarter turn. Do this to all valves on a two to three times a year basis will prevent the valves seals and washer from drying out and cracking.
Old 09-05-14, 05:18 PM
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Just a question on this

I am an old self taught guy. I always use a puller when there is enough pipe stub to work with. Then, it seems to me that I should cut a quarter inch off the copper tube so that the new ferrule sits in a non crimped section of tube. It that necessary or not? Also, when the stub is too short, I put pipe dope on the existing ferrule and reuse it. Am I out in left field? I've never had a call back.
Old 09-05-14, 05:58 PM
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As you can see above, woodbutcher says he also uses the old ferrule.
I have done this in the past, but ran into a few problems. Now, I always change it out.
Cutting the pipe back a little is good. Sometimes though, the pipe is severely deformed due to over tightening of old valve. In this case, hope for enough pipe to cut back or I will sweat on a 1/2" copper to 1/2" pipe adapter.
You said you have no call backs and that's key.
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