I'm fed up trying to get my p-trap and riser plumb. Please help me!

Reply

  #1  
Old 09-02-14, 06:06 PM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 115
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'm fed up trying to get my p-trap and riser plumb. Please help me!

So, I am remodeling my shower (using the kerdi kit) and I'm having the hardest time ever (ever) getting this p-trap/riser plumb. I feel like an idiot. I had to rebuild the p-trap for whatever reason, and to my dismay, the damn thing didn't come out straight. Here's an album of images that shows whats going on.

The third image (which is after I'd removed everything out of pure rage) shows my main problem: the pipe comes out of the joist at an angle, which I'm assuming is for drainage purposes, but since it comes out like this, even with the built in slope in the PVC, the riser doesn't come out straight. It looks like it's straight, as you can see in picture 1, but it's not really straight, as you can see in picture 2. I need it to be straight enough that it rests on the foam inserts, since i'm using a kerdi foam try. I strapped it down and everything.

What can I do to remedy this? I just dont see any way. I'm hoping I'll have enough room to add a coupling in before the p-trap, because if not, I'll have to start before the pipe comes in through the joist.

Please help me! I'm gonna post this everywhere I can think of, haha. I'm going to give it one last shot. Thanks!
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 09-03-14, 03:44 PM
P
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,986
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
What about a flex pipe somewhere along the line?
 
  #3  
Old 09-03-14, 05:01 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,119
Received 3 Votes on 3 Posts
Ehhhhh flex would be bad in a shower I think. Hair and gunk don't work well with flex.

Maybe a slightly larger hole in the joist if it stays w/in code? If you have access, you might be able to re-inforce it with ply glued and screwed to each side?

I thought p-traps in a shower were supposed to be directly beneath the drain...or is it just the pics not showing that?
 
  #4  
Old 09-03-14, 05:07 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,377
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
Work from the drain back instead of from the pipe toward the drain. Get your drain set with down spout and p-trap and then use the coupler to tie into the horizontal drain section. Try sticking the pipe into the fitting and mark how deep it goes. Measure the distance between fittings and add the depth of the hidden pipe in the fixtures to cut the pipe to the correct length.
 
  #5  
Old 09-04-14, 04:13 PM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 115
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks guys. I dont want to notch the joist if i dont have to, but will if i must. Just a bit.
 
  #6  
Old 09-04-14, 04:54 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 18,139
Received 55 Votes on 48 Posts
You need to cut the elbow out on the left and install a new elbow. Put the ell on the level. No pitch.

Then make then hole bigger in the floor joist slightly.

Work from the drain back instead of from the pipe toward the drain.
Yes!!!!!!!!!

You should be able to glue it all up because the pipe on left you can move left and right..

Dry fit it all first...

But I would have cut the sheet rock below and fit it that way... You would think its more work, but IMO its not.

Maybe for a shower base with the donut flange its easy to do from top, but not a mud pan IMO...
 
  #7  
Old 09-07-14, 10:27 AM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 115
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
What if i did some crazy business like this? There are no vertical dips, just a slight curvature horizontally due to the 22 1/2. Would that be alright?
 
  #8  
Old 09-07-14, 10:37 AM
Handyone's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: U.S.
Posts: 5,451
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
That's not crazy... This qualifies you as an excellent plumber.

I can see the level, play with a little and try to dial it in, getting it as "flat" as possible.
Looks like you're almost there or you are there.
 
  #9  
Old 09-07-14, 10:58 AM
Handyone's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: U.S.
Posts: 5,451
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
You need to cut the elbow out on the left and install a new elbow. Put the ell on the level. No pitch.
You're there, or real close as I said in my previous post. I wanted to make sure you understood what Mike was saying. That pipe that goes through joist doesn't need that extreme slope to drain properly.

Attachment 37870
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: