Repair drain pipe with screw hole

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  #1  
Old 05-08-15, 08:44 PM
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Repair drain pipe with screw hole

I had a slow leak in the upstairs bathroom drain. Mold was on the drywall inside the wall. All the drywall was removed (safely) and the studs cleaned. Now to fix the problem. I would like to cut the section out and cement in a new piece with couplings, but there is no play. I'm also open to other suggestions.
Here's my question: Will a rubber shielded coupling give me a good seal and is that ok inside a wall?

Thanks,
mistertgo
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Old 05-08-15, 10:12 PM
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I wish I could draw somehow but, I've used 4 elbows and a short piece of pipe to make inline splices. I've cut out the bad section and discarded it. Then put an elbow on each cut off end of the pipe in the wall with a short piece of pipe sticking out of the other end of the elbow in the same plane with each other. Then you can cut a piece of pipe the length of the cut out piece with elbows length considered to slide over the pieces added to the original pipe.

I really hope you can make sense of this.

If I could draw, I would take a bath. Since I can't, I have to shower.
 
  #3  
Old 05-09-15, 05:02 AM
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I could not follow Piddler's solution. But why can't you just cut out the damaged section and couple in a new piece? Is that black PVC or ABS?
 
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Old 05-09-15, 05:07 AM
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Yes a Fenco will work.
It can also be done with two repair couplings and a new piece of pipe.
Repair couplings have no hub in the middle of the coupling.
 
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Old 05-09-15, 07:41 AM
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Yes,
The shielded couplers are approved for in-wall use and I have never had one leak. Very secure means of repair.

Cut out a short section of pipe.
Place the no-hubs at top and bottom. Loosen the jackets and slide them away from rubber so rubber can be folded back and new section of pipe inserted.

Slide metal jackets back in place and tighten no-hub screws to 60 inch pounds.

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Old 05-09-15, 08:53 AM
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Thanks. I'll go with the 2 no hub shielded couplers and a new piece of pipe. I'll post a picture when It's finished.
 
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Old 05-09-15, 09:32 AM
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The no-hub couplings might work, but I would expect them to be pretty tight on schedule 40 pipe. The OD of cast iron is slightly smaller, hence the smaller no-hub couplings. I think I'd use two Fernco couplings.
 
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Old 05-09-15, 01:04 PM
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The no-hub couplings might work, but I would expect them to be pretty tight on schedule 40 pipe. The OD of cast iron is slightly smaller, hence the smaller no-hub couplings. I think I'd use two Fernco couplings.
no hubs will work and can be rolled back to fit the pipe in. These are code AFAIK too.

Ferncos are too thick to roll back and not to code They should not even be sold.. They were originally used for clay pipe repair underground...

Also fernco is a name brand like band aids.

Its like saying repair coupling or adhesive bandage...
 
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Old 05-12-15, 09:51 PM
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I used shielded no hub couplers and followed Handyone's instructions. I'll keep an eye on it for a week or two before I put up drywall. The rubber fit very snug. Does this look right?

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  #10  
Old 05-13-15, 05:14 AM
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Very nice... Looks great.. Good job....
 
 

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