Replacing copper pipe with PEX


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Old 12-03-15, 11:44 AM
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Replacing copper pipe with PEX

Looking to replace my house old copper pips and I am looking at pex. I have a few questions..

1. Looking at the way the pipes are under sinks and toilets. They r currently coming through the wall. I would image the most simple way to install the new pips would be right through the floor, but I wanted to install them through the wall what fitting would I use without busting a big hole in the wall?

2. What size of tubing is used for main branches and to the sinks and toilets?

3. Best type of pex?

4. What type of pex system is best?

Thanks
 
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Old 12-03-15, 01:24 PM
J
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Run 3/4" as main runs and 1/2" to the supply's.
Any brand PEX will work fine.
Crimp, expantion, shark bites, cinch clamps all will work. Depends on what's avalible to you localy.
I use the crimps and never had a leak.
Lowe's had the crimp tool on sale, look for the one that does both 1/2" and 3/4.
Shark Bites are fast but very expencive.
Check this site for prices.
SupplyHouse.com - Plumbing, Heating & HVAC Supplies - Formerly Pex Supply
Make sure to add shut off's if there are none on the outside faucets.
There is no magic fitting to run the pipe behind the wall.
The right way would be to cut out the sheetrock and install a PEX stub out.
Second best but my last choice would be to connect to the copper pipe that's aready there under the floor.
No way would I run it through the floor.
 
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Old 12-03-15, 02:21 PM
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Thank u for the replay.

I noticed that there some stub outs for pex
Could I use the 90 degree plastic/metal Ben support when going from main lines to supply lines pex fittings? I did find these fittings, would these work instead of the Cooper stub outs?



What type of fitting stub out connection would be used to connect water heater?
 
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Old 12-03-15, 03:16 PM
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Could not understand your reply.
Guessing you mean those plastic brackets to make a 90 deg bend with Pex.
Still would have to have the wall opened up to do what you want to do and the last thing I'd want is a piece of Pex sticking out of the wall.
I use these.
44227 - Viega 44227 - Zero Lead 1/2" PEX Crimp x 1/2" Copper Stub-Out Elbow (w/ Plate)
 
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Old 12-03-15, 04:01 PM
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sorry i re-read that and it didn't make sense, my bad.

Could I use the 90 degree plastic/metal Ben support when going from supply lines up to sink/toilt?
like this picture show's, to cut down on Brass PEX Barb 90-Degree Elbow?

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...AwVBqFjsseEPQN

I did find these fittings, would these work instead of the Cooper stub outs?

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...a8f27b480c.jpg
or these
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/4205210


What type of fitting stub out connection would be used to connect water heater?
Would a Pex drop-ear elbow work, then brass nipple then Water Heater Flex Connector?

Do you go with pex A or pex B?
 

Last edited by 2Quik; 12-03-15 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 12-03-15, 07:47 PM
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I too like the stub-outs that Joe mentioned. It gives a nice solid mount for the valves.
Mounting them directly to the PEX is allowable, but ends up looking and feeling sloppy.

For the water heater, you can use the flex connectors if you want, but I would probably just run 3/4" copper pipe to the ceiling, then convert to PEX there. If I recall correctly, by code, you need at least 18" of non-plastic pipe from the water heater for gas water heaters.
 
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Old 12-04-15, 07:39 AM
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So if using the copper stub outs how is the water valves connected?
Looking at mine it looks like there's cooper supply line then a copper male threaded adapter like this one (link) soldered to the copper supply line, well at least i think it's soldered, then the threaded water valve. It also looks like the show head and tub spigot has copper then a threaded male adapter.

I have never done a job like this so please excuse me if i ask obvious/dumb questions.

if using a copper stub out like you guys mentioned how is this installed. I see multiples ways of installing them like this (link) or like this (link)

I have noticed there is compression water valves as well. I would think that the soldered threaded copper male threaded adapter would be better then having just a compression water vale?

How far should the copper stub out extrude from the wall for the sinks and the show head and tub spigot?

Doesn't copper get build up in it, looking at my pipes there is build up, so wouldn't pex be the best option even at sink, toilet lines? How about for shower head and tub spigot?
 

Last edited by 2Quik; 12-04-15 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 12-07-15, 09:03 AM
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Any info would be very appreciated...
 
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Old 12-07-15, 10:54 AM
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So if using the copper stub outs how is the water valves connected?
You would install the piping, finish the drywall, then cut the end and use a sweated (soldered) or compression angle stop (valve). The pre-sealed ends of the stub-outs allow you to pressure test and pressurize the system before you have the drywall and valves connected.

if using a copper stub out like you guys mentioned how is this installed...
There are a handful of ways to affix the stub-outs. I like how these are installed:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]59717[/ATTACH]
But have also used these successfully as well
[ATTACH=CONFIG]59718[/ATTACH]

I've never used the steel ones with the purple fittings you showed, but I see no reason they wouldn't work equally as well.

I have noticed there is compression water valves as well. I would think that the soldered threaded copper male threaded adapter would be better then having just a compression water vale?
The soldered ones are cheaper and in my mind, more reliable. But there's no inherent issue with the compression fittings. Though they do tend to turn around the pipe as you're using them... but it's not a huge deal.

How far should the copper stub out extrude from the wall for the sinks and the show head and tub spigot?
For sinks, I find about 1.5 - 2" is sufficient. Much more than that, they can get in the way of the trap.

For the shower head and tub, you'll want to use a drop-ear elbow. It's screwed to a 2x4 and mounted about 1/2" behind the face of the tile. Then the shower head pipe will screw in, or the spigot. Different spigots attach differently, so it's always good to have the spigot before doing the install, newer ones seem to just slide over a 1/2" copper pipe.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]59719[/ATTACH]


As you're seeing, there are a lot of details, but it sounds like your planning is going well. It's always easier to start with one bathroom or kitchen if you can until you get the hang of it - so you aren't without water for weeks
 
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Old 12-08-15, 08:16 AM
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thanks for the replay Zorfdt. I have been trying to read and get as much as info as i can before i start.

You suggest doing one bathroom or kitchen at a time. Can you explain a little on what you mean? How do you do one at a time?

Does the fittings affect the water flow in PEX, the PEX tub ID is 1/2" so the brass fitting has to be smaller then the Pex to fit in the PEX. How do you address this, do you use 3/4" for supply lines and 1" for mains?
 
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Old 12-09-15, 08:21 AM
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bump.. any information would be great
 
 

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