Through floor gas line
#1
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Through floor gas line
Hello
My home has a flexible gas line (yellow) that runs through the floor to connect to a gas dryer. I know that this is against code. I would like to correct this.
My question is;
- what is the correct way to run the pipe? Can I pass black pipe through the floor?
or
Do I need to use a floor flange? The floor flange doesn't look like it would have enough threads (turns) on it to connect up two pipes.
I also know that I need a shut-off valve near the dryer as well.
Thank you,
Kevin
My home has a flexible gas line (yellow) that runs through the floor to connect to a gas dryer. I know that this is against code. I would like to correct this.
My question is;
- what is the correct way to run the pipe? Can I pass black pipe through the floor?
or
Do I need to use a floor flange? The floor flange doesn't look like it would have enough threads (turns) on it to connect up two pipes.
I also know that I need a shut-off valve near the dryer as well.
Thank you,
Kevin
#2
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You are correct, the flexible gas connector is not the proper method when going through the floor. Black steel pipe is the correct material unless your LOCAL code requires galvanized. Some local codes require galvanized, some prohibit it.
You do not need a floor flange and a floor flange is not made to couple two pipes. In fact, a floor flange is only used to make a supporting pier from pipe materials, it is never used for pipes with any flowing fluid inside the pipes.
Again, you are correct that a gas valve is needed near the dryer. You do use a flexible gas connector between the valve and the dryer connection.
Make certain that all threaded connections are properly made up. Flared connections (where the flexible connectors are used) do NOT require any type of tape or "goo" on the threads.
Tapered pipe threads need to be properly cut and without "tear outs" in the threads. I personally do not use any Teflon tape on fuel gas piping but if you do be sure to not tape the first two threads. This is to prevent Teflon shards traveling to the appliance gas valve where they might impede proper operation and cause a leak. I only use Teflon paste and make sure that the can or tube specifically states it is for use with fuel gas. There are other brands and types of paste thread sealants and as long as they state they are for the gas you are using (natural or propane) they are good. Do not use too much paste, only enough to barely fill the bottom of the thread and again, try to avoid getting in in the first one or two threads...easier said than done. When tightening threaded pipe joints use two wrenches and both hands whenever possible. Tighten them securely but not gorilla tight as doing so might stretch the fitting to the point of actually causing a leak.
Check all joints with either a commercial leak finding solution or a mixture of liquid dishwashing detergent and water. If it bubbles, try tightening first and if that doesn't stop the leak then you will need to disassemble and find the problem.
Post back if you have any problems.
You do not need a floor flange and a floor flange is not made to couple two pipes. In fact, a floor flange is only used to make a supporting pier from pipe materials, it is never used for pipes with any flowing fluid inside the pipes.
Again, you are correct that a gas valve is needed near the dryer. You do use a flexible gas connector between the valve and the dryer connection.
Make certain that all threaded connections are properly made up. Flared connections (where the flexible connectors are used) do NOT require any type of tape or "goo" on the threads.
Tapered pipe threads need to be properly cut and without "tear outs" in the threads. I personally do not use any Teflon tape on fuel gas piping but if you do be sure to not tape the first two threads. This is to prevent Teflon shards traveling to the appliance gas valve where they might impede proper operation and cause a leak. I only use Teflon paste and make sure that the can or tube specifically states it is for use with fuel gas. There are other brands and types of paste thread sealants and as long as they state they are for the gas you are using (natural or propane) they are good. Do not use too much paste, only enough to barely fill the bottom of the thread and again, try to avoid getting in in the first one or two threads...easier said than done. When tightening threaded pipe joints use two wrenches and both hands whenever possible. Tighten them securely but not gorilla tight as doing so might stretch the fitting to the point of actually causing a leak.
Check all joints with either a commercial leak finding solution or a mixture of liquid dishwashing detergent and water. If it bubbles, try tightening first and if that doesn't stop the leak then you will need to disassemble and find the problem.
Post back if you have any problems.
#4
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Furd is right on. I will add one note and that is that it's good practice to support the black pipe either right below or right above the floor with blocking and a pipe strap. Usually right below the floor works out easier. Also, if you do use Teflon tape, use the yellow tape. It's thicker so it's more resistant to shedding little pieces. But like Furd, I prefer the paste for gas.
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Will do on the support. as you mentioned it will be easier to support from below.
One last observation, on some of the pipe connections i see yellow tape, and blue paste (not my work) . Is using both okay?
One last observation, on some of the pipe connections i see yellow tape, and blue paste (not my work) . Is using both okay?
#6
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It's OK, but rarely needed. But I admit I have done it on occasion when working in a tight spot where a leak would be a real pain to fix. Just don't overdo either one; you don't want to get paste or tape inside the gas line, and you don't want to make it so only a few threads engage.
#7
If its csst with the yellow jacket around it I think thats ok.. Or is this an appliance tupe connector ?
The yellow tape is too thick IMO and make it harder to turn in to the proper thread depth... Dont know why or who came up with that but its not a code requirement from my knowledge...
The yellow tape is too thick IMO and make it harder to turn in to the proper thread depth... Dont know why or who came up with that but its not a code requirement from my knowledge...
#8
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Mike, using CSST it would terminate at a flange fitting fastened to the floor, a valve added and then a flexible connector to the appliance. The valve is mandatory and the CSST would not terminate on the appliance with it also being loose through the floor.