Shut off Valve prob - tight space
#1
02-08-16, 12:55 PM
Shut off Valve prob - tight space
Shut off valve in upper left will not completely shut off. It goes to an outside valve for a water hose. Cost me mucho dinero in the winter when I have to open the outside valve to prevent the pipe from freezing/bursting.
Any and all suggestions would be highly appreciated.
I really appreciate what all of you guys do to help others - not just me.
Regards,
Andy
#2
02-08-16, 01:37 PM
For now, you could loosen the packing nut, tighten the valve a little more & tighten the packing nut again. Other than that, that gate valve can be easily replaced with a ball valve, if you have some basic plumbing skills.
No pague mucho dinero por un plumero!
Cost me mucho dinero in the winter
#3
02-08-16, 02:00 PM
Super Moderator
It dont look like a gate valve to me.. If you shut off the main you could remove the bonnet and replace the washer inside...
But if something goes ary you may end up replacing..
Additionally if you end up replacing may as well change the outside bib to a frost free type..
Its the big nut under the packing nut that gets removed to access the washer...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]62606[/ATTACH]
But if something goes ary you may end up replacing..
Additionally if you end up replacing may as well change the outside bib to a frost free type..
Its the big nut under the packing nut that gets removed to access the washer...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]62606[/ATTACH]
#4
02-08-16, 04:56 PM
Thanks guys - food for worthwhile thought.
Nope, I'm not much of a plumber type guy - always create more problems.
A thought of mine since, for me, things are tight with butting up to the elbow and that short run to the main - how about if I just forgot about that valve and instead of working with it, installing another valve between the elbow and the outside?
Crazy?
Probably.
Nope, I'm not much of a plumber type guy - always create more problems.
A thought of mine since, for me, things are tight with butting up to the elbow and that short run to the main - how about if I just forgot about that valve and instead of working with it, installing another valve between the elbow and the outside?
Crazy?
Probably.
#5
02-08-16, 05:04 PM
Super Moderator
You could install another valve I assume.. Are you talking about a shark bite type fitting? You'll have to get that paint off I would think for a good connection...
#6
02-08-16, 07:16 PM
Member
Old gate valves like that always fail.
There going to leak or just not shut off over time.
Replace with a ball valve.
There going to leak or just not shut off over time.
Replace with a ball valve.
#7
02-09-16, 03:59 AM
If it is the top left valve, I don't think you have room enough for another valve. I think Mike's idea of rebuilding/repairing the valve is best. No soldering and no replacement. Parts are cheap. I, too, don't think it is a gate valve, but a globe valve as Mike depicted.
#8
02-09-16, 11:45 AM
Thanks to all. Here are my thoughts and questions.
1. This valve is some 30 years old but this problem has been around for several years. Balked fixing it because of my inexperience and the quote I received from a plumber.
For me to repair it: Is it important for me to know if it is a gate or globe valve? I would think so, but how do I tell?
2. Due to my lack of experience and the tightness of the area - elbow, valve, short run to main - I'm concerned that I could really muck up the situation. (Love to use the phrase 'muck up') I think I'm being realistic here.
3. Repair concern: Me thinks taking off that packing nut would be a major problem - thoughts and suggestions?
4. Add a valve: Think I have room for another one but I need to do some research before I can say I do for sure.
All of you have been great. Will wait for further feedback before deciding how to approach this.
Regards,
Andy
1. This valve is some 30 years old but this problem has been around for several years. Balked fixing it because of my inexperience and the quote I received from a plumber.
For me to repair it: Is it important for me to know if it is a gate or globe valve? I would think so, but how do I tell?
2. Due to my lack of experience and the tightness of the area - elbow, valve, short run to main - I'm concerned that I could really muck up the situation. (Love to use the phrase 'muck up') I think I'm being realistic here.
3. Repair concern: Me thinks taking off that packing nut would be a major problem - thoughts and suggestions?
4. Add a valve: Think I have room for another one but I need to do some research before I can say I do for sure.
All of you have been great. Will wait for further feedback before deciding how to approach this.
Regards,
Andy
#9
02-09-16, 11:56 AM
I don't understand your reluctance to remove one nut on a valve, but you are willing to install a complete valve in a minimal space with no or little experience with sweating pipes. Removing the nut takes a simple twist of a wrench. Once it clears the last thread, remove the remainder by turning the handle to unscrew it completely. You will find the washer partially damaged, needing a 10 cent replacement.
#11
02-10-16, 08:11 AM
Thanks Chandler and Lawrosa
My reluctance stems from spending an hour or more - sometimes w/o success - trying to untighten nuts (WD40, heat, etc.). One unsuccessful instance was with a plumbing nut.
That said, I'll bow out and see how well the un-tightening goes.
My appreciation to all of you who commented/replied.
Regards
Andy
That said, I'll bow out and see how well the un-tightening goes.
My appreciation to all of you who commented/replied.
Regards
Andy
