Leaky pipe/nut


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Old 02-11-16, 06:21 AM
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Leaky pipe/nut

Hello first time here on these boards and I was wondering I just replace a faucet and stainless supply lines under my sink. And I didn't have anything to seal the nut when I reinstalled them to the supply line and faucet. So now I have a small drip from both the hot and cold line. My question was instead of taking them both off which they were a pain to get on. Can I just use some type of epoxy putty around the top and bottom of the bolts for a quick fix? I really don't want to mess with this anymore since I worked on it for 5 hours yesterday.
 
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Old 02-11-16, 06:43 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

Unfortunately, a quick fix will likely be neither quick nor a fix.

Are these flexible hose type connectors? If so, they may just be over tightened. The flex connectors should be tightened hand tight, then one more turn. You should not need to use any kind of sealer on them.

If they are not flex connectors, this would be a good time to change to them.
 
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Old 02-11-16, 07:31 AM
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They are not flex hose they are straight stainless steel going from the pipe from the floor up to the connector on the back of the faucet
 
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Old 02-11-16, 07:35 AM
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I tried uploading a picture it just wouldn't let me.
 
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Old 02-11-16, 07:45 AM
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They are not flex hose they are straight stainless steel going from the pipe from the floor up to the connector on the back of the faucet - See more at: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pl....Jocxtagb.dpuf
Actually probably chromed copper. Switch to braided stainless steel connectors and that will probably solve your problem.

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I tried uploading a picture it just wouldn't let me - See more at: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pl....Jocxtagb.dpuf
Be sure the width of pictures is 1000px or less and they should upload.
 
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Old 02-11-16, 08:37 AM
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This is what I have going on right now, see the bottom where its connected has a crazy three part grey fitting that comes apart. I have a friend who is a apprenticeship for a union and he said he has never seen something like that
 
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Old 02-11-16, 08:40 AM
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Heres another angle
 
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Old 02-11-16, 09:57 AM
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Looks like mobile home plumbing. Is it?
 
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Old 02-11-16, 10:24 AM
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Funny you say that I had the guy from true value ask me that. But my home is not a mobile home.
 
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Old 02-11-16, 11:46 AM
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Using the flexible connectors that Ray shows is a much better, and far, far easier, method of connection. Since the flexible connectors have rubber seals in the nuts no additional pipe sealant is required or even desired.
 
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Old 02-11-16, 11:53 AM
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Where would I connect it to? Would I have to take the whole grey fitting off and connect it to that part of the pipe. That's where iam kinda lost at
 
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Old 02-11-16, 12:19 PM
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That gray fitting and pipe in a stick built house normally wouldn't be there, You would have a valve on the wall. If you do not already have a valve I would add a ½" pipe thread by 3/8" compression or flare valve to the top of the pipe. Flex lines that are 3/8 compression or 3/8 flare on one end to fit a valve and ½" pipe thread to fit your faucets on the other end are common. Just be sure if you get a flare valve get a flare flex line. 3/8 flare and 3/8 compression or different.

Be very careful if that gray pipe is polybutylene pipe. It breaks easily. http://www.sterlinginspections.com/Polybutylene.html
 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:06 PM
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Yes looks like old quest piping.. ( grey stuff)

As ray stated....

Remove both supply's and get 5/8 x 3/8 braided supply lines.. 18" should do fine. Careful to not turn out the 1/2 x 3/8 adapter threaded into the grey fitting.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]62737[/ATTACH]
 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:11 PM
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Yea its polybutylene thats one reason why I was a little nervous jumping into this project. So what you are saying is that i could add a valve right above where the water shut off knob is for both hot and cold? and then would beable to connect a flex connector to it to just wipe out the whole copper pipe i have in its place right now?
 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:19 PM
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No.. Just unscrew the nuts from both ends of the metal lines you have now. The braided I show should be a direct fit.. You have valves so no additional valves needed...
 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:26 PM
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Sorry first time doing this so I do apologize but I am still a little lost the last part
 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:30 PM
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Unscrew the nut on the metal supply line here.. It should be 3/8.. The new braided line should screw right onto the threads that remain...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]62742[/ATTACH]


Then unscrew these. this is 5/8 and the other end of the braided line goes here..

[ATTACH=CONFIG]62743[/ATTACH]
 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:42 PM
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Ok so that grey fitting is three seperate pieces you have to disconnect basically the bottom piece to pull the supply line out. The bottom part stays on and you pull the line out. I only say this because If I unscrew the top part the line is still there
 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:49 PM
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Its three pieces here right? If you unscrew the top nut the line should pull out....


[ATTACH=CONFIG]62744[/ATTACH]
 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:51 PM
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Id have to see it apart then to make a determination... You can get any type adapter depending how it comes apart...

example...

 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:54 PM
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The new supply line will probably need to be 3/8" flare but show us it apart so Mike can give you a better answer.
 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:55 PM
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The line doesn't pull out because inside is a little piece that slides in with a metal ring. Basically keeping the line in place where u fit it to be to match up with the faucet. You have to disconnect the bottom to pull the whole thing out
 
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Old 02-11-16, 01:58 PM
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The top piece at the bottom of the line is not a nut it's a whole piece of plastic
 
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Old 02-11-16, 02:12 PM
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Then you need a 1/2" flare x 3/8 compression...to adapt...


[ATTACH=CONFIG]62748[/ATTACH]


Thanks for the help ray... Just got home from work...
 
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Old 02-11-16, 02:52 PM
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Thanks guys for the help. I'm gonna try to take it apart and put some seal tape and see if that works if not just go ahead and replace it like u guys said
 
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Old 02-11-16, 03:54 PM
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I'm gonna try to take it apart and put some seal tape and see if that works
I wouldn't even try but if you do: Tape is not used on compression or flare fittings. Try using a new cone washer at the faucet.
 
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Old 02-11-16, 05:11 PM
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What do they look like? And that will go on the end with the faucet?
 
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Old 02-11-16, 05:51 PM
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What do they look like?
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Old 02-11-16, 06:04 PM
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But often on old supply the cone is part of the supply... Which I think you have..

With those, removing the nut and pipe, doping the cone may help.

In reality I guess its a flare type fitting for clarity...


[ATTACH=CONFIG]62758[/ATTACH]
 
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Old 02-11-16, 06:11 PM
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That is exactly what I have it has the cone shape end on it.
 
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Old 02-11-16, 06:49 PM
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remove the nut and goop up the cone end with teflon pipe dope. Tighten... Leak should stop
 
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Old 02-11-16, 07:08 PM
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Awesome thanks I'll give that a try
 
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Old 02-11-16, 07:13 PM
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So just put the dope on the cone end. Don't add any to the faucet end?
 
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Old 02-11-16, 07:15 PM
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Yes. nut put some on the threads of the faucet end. And make sure before you tighten that the supplys are lined up/inserted straight into the faucet end. Not on an angle...
 
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Old 02-11-16, 07:24 PM
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Only problem I ran into with keeping it straight is since both lines are shorter then my old faucet I had to push the line over some on the hot line. If u can see in the picture below. It seem to screw on straight but it is somewhat bent I suppose
 
 

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