I have this old school gas valve and I made the mistake of touching it.

I was trying to replace my gas range and this valve was the nearest shut off. Everything went well with the gas range replacement but when i tried to close the shut off valve (shown in the picture) the 'lock nut' broke. So I used a random similar looking silver nut (i think its zinc or galvanized) in place. However, there is a very slow leak between the nut and the washer (i think its a washer), the point of leak is also shown in the picture. The leak is very slow, when i spray soap water there is a single bubble blowing very slowly, no smell. I have little experience with gas valves, What should i do to stop the leak? Should i use a different nut and washer? What kind of washers do gas valves take anyways? Can I use regular rubber or metal washers?

I understand the valve is old and needs replacement but its located at a very tight space right next to my HVAC vent so i am just trying to shut the valve/leak and hopefully wont have to use it again.

P.S. I am not sure what is next to the nut, is it a washer or a broken piece of the valve? (its freely removable like a washer and I am certain i didn't break this piece). whatever it is its not even/smooth for a good seal.

 

This valve needs replaced. We can walk you through it.

I can't see where the pipe that exits the valve goes (top of picture), but I'm guessing it's not far and this will be a relatively easy fix.

 

I'm guessing the pipe out of the top of that valve goes thru the floor to the gas range. If that is the case.... that valve can be removed and a new one installed behind the range where it should be.

 

That is correct PJmax. Pipe out of the top of that valve goes thru the floor to the gas range.

Handyone, you are right its not far. This valve is in the ceiling of my basement and the pipe out of the top of the valve is about 4 ft that goes into the kitchen (See picture). It would be great if you can walk me through the steps of replacing this and please also list the parts I am going to need as my plumbing knowledge is pretty shallow. I should have the tools needed for the job.

Will I have to shut off the main gas valve to do this (there is not other intermediary shut off) or is there some kind of plug i could use to stop the gas from leaking while i replace the valve? Shutting off the main will turn off all the pilots.

 

The valve needs to be in the kitchen not the basement. Remove the valve in the basement. Run a pipe from the tee in the basement to the kitchen and install a valve. There is no safe work-around for not shutting off the main gas valve. Best practice and national code you need to replace the gas flex line every time you disconnect it. That one is looking pretty gnarly.

 

Gas needs shut off to the house. Shut off the main valve at the meter and the valves to the gas water heater and gas furnace. Shut off any other appliances with pilot lights if any. The furnace might have electric ignition or pilot light.
Around here, and maybe everywhere, the gas company will come and relight the pilots at no charge if desired.

Parts:
- New length of 1/2" pipe to come up through floor, or you can clean the old threads if you want, I use a drill with a wire wheel.
- New Coated flex line, 5/8" OD x 48" long
- New Valve, 1/2" female pipe inlet x 5/8" flare outlet, these are common
- Gas Pipe Dope, Rectoseal yellow is considered one of the best, ProDope is another

Remove the old pipe down to the tee and insert new pipe into tee. Apply pipe dope to male threads only. The only place you need dope is at the tee and at the 1/2" input to the valve. Don't apply dope when connecting flex line to the male flare fittings.
Picture is what the top of your pipe should look like. Valve in picture is 3/4" pipe inlet that I had laying around, but the top flare fitting and hose are 5/8".



Note: The 5/8" flex line is for ranges between 75,000 to 106,000 BTU, post back if your range is different.

 

You've gotten some good instructions, but I would caution you - if you don't feel comfortable working with gas lines, give a plumber a call. It can get a bit difficult with getting the correct length threaded pipes and getting everything leak-free. You'll also have to re-light the pilots when you're done.

You'll have to make the determination of your comfort level doing this work.

 

I'm hooking up a new one myself and was surprised on the new stainless steel line it says to 'not use dish soap'. If that is what you use, I always have, you can buy some gas line solution for a few bucks to check for leaks.

 

Thank you so much handyone for the detailed walkthrough. I am comfortable with the pipe replacement part, its the relighting of the pilots that i am not sure about. But i will dig up the appliance manuals and find out.

I will only be able to get to this over the weekend, might be the weekend after this. until then how can I stop the slow leak? Is there a washer or a better nut i could try using?

 

I have to say changing the valve cannot wait. At the very least, remove the existing valve and cap off the pipe with a 1/2" pipe cap, or you can remove the pipe all the way down to the tee and plug the tee with a 1/2" pipe plug. The range will be out until fixed.
Call the gas company regarding pilot lights.
If you don't have time to do the repairs, I recommend you call a plumber asap.

 

Thank you. I have a question, there seem to be two main shut off valves. They are different types and they are both on the gas company side. Again, they are both old style valves. I have highlighted both in the first picture below. Which one should I shut off?

Second picture is just a close up of the top valve.

 

You can use either valve. Try the one by the meter. The flat part where you put the wrench is now parallel to the pipe. It needs to be perpendicular to be off. The lock holes will line up on the valve.

 

Just finished replacing the valve and installing the gas range. Handyone's instructions made it very easy. Only challenge was the tight space but overall the process went smooth. Relighting pilot light on the water heater and the boiler is super easy. Gas dryer is the only thing left, need to find out from the manual if there is a pilot or just an igniter.

Thank you all for the help!

 

There ya go.

I've never seen a pilot on a gas dryer but you never know. Fire it up and see if it heats.

 

Good job, and thanks to PJ. I'm glad you didn't wait.

Personally, I have never seen a gas dryer with a pilot light.

 

I had a dryer with a pilot once but I doubt they have been used in forty years. If your dryer is less than 20 years old it is extremely unlikely it has a pilot light.