How to fix a very weak flow of a kitchen tap?
#1
04-06-16, 11:50 AM
How to fix a very weak flow of a kitchen tap?
Hi,
I have no idea what's going on.
1) the tap is not new but I doubt it got clogged or something;
2) the valves under the sink (both hot and cold) can only go half way in, half way out and the water flow is very stable: steadily weak as I open or close the valves. In another word, it won't be affected;
3) a bathroom is next to the kitchen and the water flow for the sink is normal, pretty strong;
4) the laundry room is next to the bathroom, waster flow in there got no problems at all;
5) the kitchen, bathroom and laundry use the same water source coming from the basement. So I'm not supposed to suspect the copper water pipe, should I?
Any suggestions on how to test it?
Thanks in advance.
I have no idea what's going on.
1) the tap is not new but I doubt it got clogged or something;
2) the valves under the sink (both hot and cold) can only go half way in, half way out and the water flow is very stable: steadily weak as I open or close the valves. In another word, it won't be affected;
3) a bathroom is next to the kitchen and the water flow for the sink is normal, pretty strong;
4) the laundry room is next to the bathroom, waster flow in there got no problems at all;
5) the kitchen, bathroom and laundry use the same water source coming from the basement. So I'm not supposed to suspect the copper water pipe, should I?
Any suggestions on how to test it?
Thanks in advance.
#3
04-06-16, 12:06 PM
Member
First step would be to remove the aerator from the end of the spout and test without that (it will be a rough stream, but you should be able to judge volume. Aerators often get plugged up with grit and minerals. They can be cleaned in vinegar or simply replaced.
If the faucet spout pulls out so you can use it as a sprayer, unscrew the flexible hose from the spout and look inside the end of the spout; there is often a coarse filter screen that gets plugged up.
If flow is no better, next step would be to turn off the water, disconnect the small water lines going to the faucet, direct them into a bucket and turn the water back on (slowly) to see if you get a good, strong stream, both hot and cold.
If you get good strong streams from the supply lines, but sink flow is still poor, then you may have a bad or clogged faucet cartridge.
Good luck!
If the faucet spout pulls out so you can use it as a sprayer, unscrew the flexible hose from the spout and look inside the end of the spout; there is often a coarse filter screen that gets plugged up.
If flow is no better, next step would be to turn off the water, disconnect the small water lines going to the faucet, direct them into a bucket and turn the water back on (slowly) to see if you get a good, strong stream, both hot and cold.
If you get good strong streams from the supply lines, but sink flow is still poor, then you may have a bad or clogged faucet cartridge.
Good luck!
#4
04-12-16, 02:35 PM
Thanks guys for your info.
Sure. But I will start the test from your 3rd step because I've gone through the first 2. I haven't done the 3rd yet. It's definitely a good idea of doing that.
Yes. I believe both valves (hot and cold) have the same problems. They are not working at all.
Thanks again and I'll keep you posted.
Btw, the main water valve (cold) can be turned off easily; what about the hot one. I have a Weil McLain water heater. The heat source is heating oil. I don't have a pic now. I need to know which valve I need to turn off to stop the hot water so I can replace the valve under the sink. I checked the manual. Easy to find the cold water shut off valve but not the hot one.
Sure. But I will start the test from your 3rd step because I've gone through the first 2. I haven't done the 3rd yet. It's definitely a good idea of doing that.
Yes. I believe both valves (hot and cold) have the same problems. They are not working at all.
Thanks again and I'll keep you posted.
Btw, the main water valve (cold) can be turned off easily; what about the hot one. I have a Weil McLain water heater. The heat source is heating oil. I don't have a pic now. I need to know which valve I need to turn off to stop the hot water so I can replace the valve under the sink. I checked the manual. Easy to find the cold water shut off valve but not the hot one.
#5
04-12-16, 03:29 PM
Member
There's usually a valve right after the hot water tank (assuming it's a tank type heater). But if there isn't, turning off the main cold water valve will also shut off the hot water, since (once you release pressure by opening a faucet somewhere) there will be no pressure to force the hot water through the pipes.
If the shutoffs beneath the sink have failed, they may be at least part of the problem. Pieces of them can break off and plug stuff up, so replacing them while you have the water off is a good idea. Best to use the newer 1/4 turn ball valve style; they are a lot better than the old multiturn ones.
Good luck with your project!
If the shutoffs beneath the sink have failed, they may be at least part of the problem. Pieces of them can break off and plug stuff up, so replacing them while you have the water off is a good idea. Best to use the newer 1/4 turn ball valve style; they are a lot better than the old multiturn ones.
Good luck with your project!
#6
04-17-16, 05:06 PM
Thanks CarbideTipped. The information you provided is really helpful. I did not know if I shut off the cold water inlet, the hot water will stop too.
Now I have another problem. I tried to replace the valves under the sink. As I heat up the joints, I still had water in the tube and the water got turned into steam. There is no way of removing all the water inside the tube.
I turned of the main valve and opened the kitchen tap and let the water out. I waited for a few hours but I still have water in the tube.
Is there any way of get rid of the water so I can do some soldering? I can't do it with water in the tube, can I? I don't want shark bites.
Btw, I checked the water pressure following the way you guys told me. I'm sure the problems that cause the weak flow is the kitchen tab. But I need to replace the valves first.
Thanks again.
Now I have another problem. I tried to replace the valves under the sink. As I heat up the joints, I still had water in the tube and the water got turned into steam. There is no way of removing all the water inside the tube.
I turned of the main valve and opened the kitchen tap and let the water out. I waited for a few hours but I still have water in the tube.
Is there any way of get rid of the water so I can do some soldering? I can't do it with water in the tube, can I? I don't want shark bites.
Btw, I checked the water pressure following the way you guys told me. I'm sure the problems that cause the weak flow is the kitchen tab. But I need to replace the valves first.
Thanks again.
#7
04-17-16, 07:56 PM
Group Moderator
One way to handle the water issue is to turn the water main off to the house. Turn the cold water supply back on to the water heater or coil. Drain water from anywhere below the kitchen valves, leaving the kitchen valves open. There should be a drain near the storage tank or coil. Just make sure you aren't draining the heating loop. A gallon or two should do it.
Make sure whatever heats your hot water is turned off until the main water is restored.
Make sure whatever heats your hot water is turned off until the main water is restored.
#8
04-18-16, 07:03 AM
Thanks PJmax. But I'm not quite clear about part of what you said.
1) I turned off the main valve; but I did not turn off "the cold water supply ... to the water heater or coil", so there is no need to turn it back on, right?
2) what did you mean by "Just make sure you aren't draining the heating loop"? Are you saying the loop between the boiler and the water heater? I turned off the boiler too since the weather is warm enough not to worry about a frozen pipe in the baseboard system.
I drained the water heater and ended up with a couple of gallons of water. But it's hot water. Does that have anything to do with the cold water left in the kitchen pipes?
3) "Make sure whatever heats your hot water is turned off until the main water is restored". I guess I don't worry about that part since I've shut down the boiler.
The system is fed on heating fuel; the heat the boiler generates is the supply to both water heater and the heating baseboard. The water heater is not independent or electrical.
1) I turned off the main valve; but I did not turn off "the cold water supply ... to the water heater or coil", so there is no need to turn it back on, right?
2) what did you mean by "Just make sure you aren't draining the heating loop"? Are you saying the loop between the boiler and the water heater? I turned off the boiler too since the weather is warm enough not to worry about a frozen pipe in the baseboard system.
I drained the water heater and ended up with a couple of gallons of water. But it's hot water. Does that have anything to do with the cold water left in the kitchen pipes?
3) "Make sure whatever heats your hot water is turned off until the main water is restored". I guess I don't worry about that part since I've shut down the boiler.
The system is fed on heating fuel; the heat the boiler generates is the supply to both water heater and the heating baseboard. The water heater is not independent or electrical.
#9
04-18-16, 10:37 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Another way to drain is open any valve that is sited below the level of sink. Be sure to open the sink valves so you can get air in. Your hot water drain will do and the water will be hot as it has already gone through heater.
#10
04-18-16, 01:48 PM
Thanks.
I have a tap for connecting the garden hose in my back yard, which comes from my basement and the kitchen is right above it. I've turned it loose and let the water out. I guess it should be ok now but no time taking a look.
I'll keep you guys updated.
Thanks again.
I have a tap for connecting the garden hose in my back yard, which comes from my basement and the kitchen is right above it. I've turned it loose and let the water out. I guess it should be ok now but no time taking a look.
I'll keep you guys updated.
Thanks again.
#11
04-18-16, 02:12 PM
Group Moderator
That may do it. It should only take a few minutes to drain water from the faucet area.
The main reason I mentioned a valve on the hot water storage tank was so that it drained both hot and cold water lines.
You could post a pic of what you are working on. Sometimes we can see a shortcut.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
The main reason I mentioned a valve on the hot water storage tank was so that it drained both hot and cold water lines.
You could post a pic of what you are working on. Sometimes we can see a shortcut.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
#12
04-19-16, 08:50 AM
Ok, I'll try to attach a few pics after I'm back home (now I'm out of town for a few days). First time to attach pics and hope it's not complicated.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
