Shimming a sink pedestal

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Old 04-19-16, 08:04 AM
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Shimming a sink pedestal

I've never installed a pedestal sink before so I don't know if the problem I ran into is typical. I slid the unit into position, leveled the sink side-side and fore-aft (temporary shims), marked the wall with the outline and bracket & screw locations per instructions. After mounting the sink to the wall I slid the pedestal back in and to get it to fully contact the bottom of the sink I needed to add quite a few shims to compensate for the unlevel floor. This looks like more than should be covered over with caulk.

Is there a moldable putty that can be pushed into the gap that will support the pedestal once it sets up hard?

 
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Old 04-19-16, 11:24 AM
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I recommend you remove the sink and lower the mounting bracket.
If you don't want to do that, you could build or make some type of base for the pedestal, possibly out of wood using a router.
I've never made a base, lowering the sink would be best looking solution.
 
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Old 04-19-16, 01:13 PM
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While it wouldn't be too difficult to build a wooden base you'd have the concern of it getting wet occasionally which could lead to more problems. I don't know if it's feasible to make a base out of PVC but that would be better than wood. I agree it's best to lower the sink!
 
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Old 04-19-16, 01:19 PM
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Oops, I forgot wood absorbs water like a sponge

Thanks Mark, maybe that's why I never tried the wooden base fix.
 
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Old 04-19-16, 02:54 PM
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+1 for lowering the sink. Is there a reason that wasn't done?
 
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Old 04-19-16, 08:33 PM
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Because the base contacts the floor at the right rear corner.
 
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Old 04-19-16, 09:00 PM
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as Guy says, your floor is not level. Put a level on the floor and see what kit indicates. Since you can't lower the sink because the base touches the back end, you can use floor leveler or recess the shims under the base and fill with caulk. That will hide the gap and seal the base and give it stability.
 
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Old 04-20-16, 09:19 AM
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Maybe I'm overthinking this...but here's why I'm asking about a solid filler rather than squishy caulk: My previous house had a tile bathroom and the cast iron toilet flange was set on top of the tile, with the jagged pipe protruding a bit above the flange. The toilet was sitting on a base of (tile bedding/floor leveler/brick mortar, thinset...whatever). I didn't know this until I replaced the toilet and the rim of "whatever" broke to pieces. It took inexperienced me the rest of the day to make the flange "right" by removing the lead & oakum, remove the flange, score & chip out the tile in order to reinstall the flange level with the top of the tile.

A lot of work to fix something that looked and functioned fine as it was.

In the 50+ years since that house was built maybe something better has been invented to stuff into a large gap that will support the pedestal?
 
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Old 04-20-16, 05:25 PM
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Did you check the level of the floor? You don't need to "support" the pedestal. Just make sure it is sitting on a solid surface on at least 4 corners. Let the gap stay under it. Just use caulk to put a bead around the edge to seal it from water and dirt,
 
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Old 04-20-16, 07:46 PM
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I found an online reference to a mortar fill around toilet shims that seems to describe the install in my 1958 home. I think this would be preferable to just caulk under the pedestal.

Once the shims are slid beneath the toiletís base and the bowl is steadied, they need to be held in place. Caulking can be used to both hide and hold them. However, my favorite method is to pack and wipe a clean joint of tile grout where the toilet meets the floor. It not only hides and holds the shims, it acts as filler between all the gaps and once the grout is set up, it does a great job of preventing movement.
 
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Old 04-20-16, 08:08 PM
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Actually I was going to suggest white thinset mortar. If you go with grout use sanded grout. Sanded grout is designed to hold together in larger gaps
 
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Old 04-20-16, 08:22 PM
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Caulk is not the way, that's a huge gap. I don't like it but here's what I would do:

Tape off the floor the best you can in the profile of the pedestal bottom.
Fill the gap with setting type joint compound (hot mud). Take your time filling the joint, 20 minute mud will dry hard in about 45 minutes but wait longer and apply it in several coats. Fill the majority and go back for the final one or two finishing fills.

Use sandable hot mud and sand it to match the pedestal profile best you can.
For paint you might have to experiment with what shade of white and sheen looks best.

If that's a laminate floor, then there are issues but there's not much you can do.

Edit: I typed same time as Ray, the thin set is good also, anything but caulk.
 
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Old 04-21-16, 06:45 AM
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Great ideas--thanks. I realize the pedestal doesn't hold up the sink but I want a strong base in case someone leans hard on the sink. The pedestal was my wifes idea--I don't like them.

The floor isn't as tilted as the gap makes it look. I had to tip the pedestal back a little because the it hits the drain pipe at the left corner and the trap on the right side a little bit before it's in the correct position. This doubled the gap at the floor but was the best compromise. Everything is "improvise, adapt, compromise" in a log cabin!



 
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Old 04-21-16, 10:54 AM
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The s-trap shown in the picture is no longer code in most areas because water can siphon out of the trap leaving it dry and letting sewer gas in. Only P traps are code. Is the drain even vented?
 
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Old 04-21-16, 03:20 PM
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Yah huh. Yes.
.
 
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Old 04-21-16, 04:46 PM
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Set the pedestal base in plaster.. Just as I do for toilets here..

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/to...let-again.html
 
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Old 04-21-16, 08:28 PM
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What keeps the plaster from bonding with the base of the toilet?
I don't care if the plaster breaks years later if the toilet is removed--but I don't want to break the toilet trying to lift it.
(If I ever try this on a toilet...)
 
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Old 04-21-16, 08:36 PM
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Plaster will not bond to porcelin...I have been doing this 30 years plus...

It creates a firm level base...

No offense but I dont know why anyone would want a pedistal sink. I despise them... Cant store anything... They are ugly... Just my opinion though...
 
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Old 04-21-16, 09:43 PM
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Pedestal sinks hide ugly piping with minimal space and or areas that are too small to have vanity or cabinet. Also keeps cabinet junk to a minimum for those that don't want to keep junk under the sink. but i also don't care for them aesthetically.
 
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Old 04-22-16, 09:18 AM
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No offense taken Mike--read the first paragraph in post 13.

My "sticking" question results from Googling using plaster under a toilet. There are many instances where it bonded to the rough china underneath, and "solutions" of using saran wrap or wax paper as a barrier.

Beats me...there are SO MANY opinions online to "NEVER do X, always do Y" and they always contradict each other.
 
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Old 04-22-16, 11:52 AM
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Pedestal sinks ............... or areas that are too small to have vanity or cabinet
That is the reason I have one in my half bath. I had considered building a narrow cabinet but even then it would be a little tight and a pedestal sink was actually cheaper. IMO they look better than the old hang on the wall sinks.
 
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Old 04-22-16, 01:44 PM
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IMO they look better than the old hang on the wall sinks.
Im old fashion.. If I ever build a dream home I will do the baths like this.. But not in pink// AS and Kohler had so greatl colors too...

This style was phasing out when I started plumbing in 1982..

I just love these old baths and when people tear them out I cringe..

But thats just me...

[IMG]
Living with Vintage Bathroom Tile
[/IMG]
 
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Old 04-22-16, 05:23 PM
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But thats just me...
It sure is just you! That is so '50's. I cringe when I see them.
 
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