connectors for sill c o c k / faucet on concrete


  #1  
Old 05-26-16, 08:09 AM
Q
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connectors for sill c o c k / faucet on concrete

I have a sill c o c k to connect to different pipes and am not sure what connectors to use.


It's a new outside faucet on the grade concrete of the house. We will be drilling a hole through the concrete and connecting 1/2" polypipe from the pressure tank to PEX and then to a sill c o c k outside.
The sill c o c k will be exposed to freezing temperatures in winter.
The sill c o c k I have has a 1/2" female thread.
What connector needs to be used to connect the PP to PEX?
What connector needs to be used to connect the PEX to the sill c o c k? I assume I cannot use a shark bite as it will be inside the concrete as sill c o c k would be attached to concrete on outside wall?
 
  #2  
Old 05-26-16, 08:22 AM
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The sill **** should be long enough to extend through the wall into conditioned space. They are available in various lengths so you can do this. A freeze-proof sill **** works by having a long body that moves the actual water shut off into conditioned space and allowing any water in the remainder of the body to drain out when the sill **** is turned off. If you choose one long enough, then you can use any convenient method to attach the PEX, including a shark bite.
 
  #3  
Old 05-26-16, 10:24 AM
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I also have some 3/4" polypipe buried in the ground, which I want to bring up at certain junction points outside.
I need to connect this to a 1/2" female threaded sillcock on a post. These don;t need to be frostproof as I will blow them out with compressed air at end of season.

What is the best way to connect the PP - what attachment is needed?
A 3/4 to 1/2 reducer and then a male thread?
Does the reducer need to be made of plastic connectors for polypipe?
 
  #4  
Old 05-26-16, 01:38 PM
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  #5  
Old 05-26-16, 02:30 PM
Q
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Isn't it 10 times the price of a normal faucet?
Frost line here is 6ft - that's a lot of digging compared to blowing out the water
 
 

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