Polypipe valve for frost proof sillcock
#1
06-12-16, 06:53 PM
Polypipe valve for frost proof sillcock
What ball valve can I use to connect 1/2" polypipe so that I can shut it off if I need to?
ie an isolation valve as its a separate arm of the piping.
I could only find pex ball valves in the store.
ie an isolation valve as its a separate arm of the piping.
I could only find pex ball valves in the store.
Last edited by qwertyjjj; 06-12-16 at 07:33 PM.
#2
06-13-16, 05:01 AM
Group Moderator
What type of poly pipe do you have if it's not PEX? I have seen black poly used in a house for the main line but never run to a fixture. But... you'll probably have to get a ball valve and then whatever barbed fittings you need for the ball valve to connect to your pipe.
#4
06-13-16, 07:00 AM
The poly comes from the well pump to the pressure tank. Then 1/2" poly comes out but is soon connected to copper for the inside house water. The poly is about 36" long before the copper and the previous owner connected another section to feed one outdoor tap. So I could connect the existing poly direct to outdoor tap or transition to pex - what's best?
#5
06-13-16, 09:42 AM
Group Moderator
If you don't want to replace the pipe I'd just get a ball valve and fittings for either side of the ball valve, probably barbed.
Or, convert the poly to PEX which has ball valves available with the PEX female barb on both ends already.
Or, convert the poly to PEX which has ball valves available with the PEX female barb on both ends already.
#6
06-13-16, 10:27 AM
It's odd to see PE pipe used indoors. Usually it goes from the water main to the pressure tank or water meter, then converts to a more typical indoor plumbing method (PEX, Copper, etc). That said, I don't see any issue with a 3' length connected to an outdoor spigot, it's really whatever is easiest to replace/use.
My only suggestion is to not use a PVC valve nor barbs like Pilot Dane suggested, but use a brass valve with stainless or brass barbs. Same setup as the pictures he has, but the brass valve will be more reliable long-term than a PVC valve.
My only suggestion is to not use a PVC valve nor barbs like Pilot Dane suggested, but use a brass valve with stainless or brass barbs. Same setup as the pictures he has, but the brass valve will be more reliable long-term than a PVC valve.
#7
06-13-16, 10:50 AM
Hardware store gave me plastic barb valves to connect to the T of the pressure tank.
The pipes do connect to copper but there is a short length of poly coming from the tank and then onto the copper indoors.
To connect poly to PEX, do I use a barb with threaded on the other end then what does the threaded connector connect to?
https://i.imgsafe.org/f0ac6bee6d.jpg
https://i.imgsafe.org/f0ac83bdba.jpg
https://i.imgsafe.org/f0ac8c10fd.jpg
The pipes do connect to copper but there is a short length of poly coming from the tank and then onto the copper indoors.
To connect poly to PEX, do I use a barb with threaded on the other end then what does the threaded connector connect to?
https://i.imgsafe.org/f0ac6bee6d.jpg
https://i.imgsafe.org/f0ac83bdba.jpg
https://i.imgsafe.org/f0ac8c10fd.jpg
Last edited by qwertyjjj; 06-13-16 at 12:36 PM.
#8
06-15-16, 10:10 AM
There's no issue with the plastic fittings, they are obviously installed and working leak-free, so I wouldn't bother changing them out.
Same with the PE to copper, if it works, it's fine. If you really want to change it though, you can get PE -> PEX adapters, or you can do a PE -> Threaded and Threaded -> PEX adapter and screw the two together.
Same with the PE to copper, if it works, it's fine. If you really want to change it though, you can get PE -> PEX adapters, or you can do a PE -> Threaded and Threaded -> PEX adapter and screw the two together.
