I just replaced my old pressure tank.
Both switches were set to 30/50 psi.
On the old one, there was a little manual lever that you had to use anytime the pressure dropped below 20 where the switch would turn off completely.
This was useful on the off chance that the pipes froze, which they did once when the heat tape around the pipe buried 6ft below the ground froze on a very cold week.
The PSI drops to 0, and the switch doesn't power the pump any more until someone pushes the lever to manually provide power to the pump until it gets > 20 psi at which point the switch takes over.

On the current new switch, it just powers on automatically even when PSI is at zero like it is when the tank is empty and you want to fill it.
Isn't this dangerous for the pump?
If the line freezes again, water will not get through to the tank and the switch will constantly power the pump to try and get water therefore burning out the well pump.

 

Yes, it's a good idea to have the low pressure cutoff. It also handles the situation of a break in the line between the pump and the well tank. You just have to remember to use the lever when first powering system and anytime the system is drained.

It's fairly easy to change out the switch, just have to kill the power and drain the tank.

https://www.amazon.com/Square-FSG2J2.../dp/B0002YSOPM

 

I can only find 20/40 low pressure cutoffs here yet my current is a 30/50. Can I adjust a 20/40 up to 30/50 or 35/50?

 

If it's the typical square D (that looks like the one I linked to above) then yes, it can be adjusted up.

There are two adjustments, one (the larger one, IIRC) moves both cut-in and cut-out; the other changes the differential. You should only adjust the former.

 

Ok a few more questions:
1. Is it ok to use those plastic connectors with barbs and threads into the T pipe? That's also what the hardware store gave me but I've since read about PVC connectors cracking. This is only holding cold water.
2. The pressure tank is creaking when it gets up to 55PSI - is that normal? Air preset is at 28PSI.
3. Lastly ( ) - the horizontal pipe where it joins the 90 degree elbow before going into the tank is leaking a bit. The hardware store guy tightened this for me with a wrench but maybe he didn't add enough wraps of PTFE? Just guessing. I don't think I would be able to tighten this more especially not 1 full turn to get it all facing the right way again. Will I have to disconnect all of it now?

 

By barbed fitting, do mean an insert fitting like this used to transition from Poly well pipe to threaded pipe?



If so, plastic fitting are often used for this although I prefer brass or stainless. If yours is plastic and isn't leaking, I wouldn't change it.

You said your pressure setting was 30/50 so why is your pressure tank going up to 55? If you've adjusted the pressure range up higher, be aware that the tank pressure (which must be measured with the tank completely empty) should be 2-3 psi below the cut-in pressure. So if you've adjusted your pressure range up to 35/55 the tank should have 33 psi in it when completely empty. That may account for the creaking. I have heard tanks make a little noise, but I wouldn't call it normal.

A picture would help with your last question. But generally there is not much you can do with a leaking threaded fitting without disassembling enough to redo the joint. I suggest you use a pipe joint compound (like rectorseal #5) instead of Teflon tape. I think it seals better, especially when a joint should be a little tighter but can't be because of positioning.

 

Not sure why it's 35/55 unless it was set incorrectly at the factory, I only connected up the wires. Or the pressure guage is slightly off.
But it still wouldn't explain the creaking would it? 55PSI + 28PSI in the tank = 83PSI, which is way less than the 100PSI that the tank can hold.

 

The creaking is likely the bladder diaphragm moving in the tank. If the pre-charge isn't right the bladder ends up moving farther than it should and might make some noise.

You checked the tank pre-charge at the air fitting on top of the tank (under the cap) and with no water in the tank and the drain valve open, correct?

Is the fitting that leaks just to the left of the pressure gauge? If so, you should be able to loosen the two hose clamps and tighten the fitting, and then retighten the clamps. The fitting should spin inside the tubing enough to tighten it a bit. It wouldn't be a bad idea to loosen the fitting first and apply some pipe dope before tightening it.


The hose clamps have to be really tight. Technically one of them should be on top and one on bottom (The screw part of the clamp) to get even pressure on the fitting, but if they aren't leaking, leave them be. Relieve all the pressure in the system before attempting this

 

Yep, checked with tank empty, was 28PSI.
The fitting that leaks is the metal one that goes in underneath the tank (through the big hole in the painted blue of the tank), the T - very small leak.
These plastic ones don't spin though, if I have to disconnect it then I have to cut off the pipe by slitting it and attach a new one, the barb holds onto it very tightly.

 

Oh blast, the worse possible place for leak

If you have a heat gun, you can heat the poly pipe just enough to soften it enough to pull it off the fittings. And heating it a bit before sliding it on the fittings makes it a lot easier. If you do that, you should tighten the clamps while it is still warm. It's best to cut a couple of inches off when an end has been removed, but in a pinch I've not done that and have gotten away with it.

 

Does it always retain the same shape after cooling down or will it stretch?

 

If you don't overheat it, it will retain it's shape but just be a little more pliable.