Utility tub faucet: repair or replace?

I have a utility tub faucet that leaks. I'm thinking about replacing it and the other valves in the area (see photo).

My questions:

1. Given the age (40 to 60 years) and condition, would replacing the four valves and the faucet be a good way to go?

2. Is it possible to buy good quality valves and faucets of this kind at Lowe's? I ask because a lot of the plumbing supplies I've gotten there are junk (pressure gauges that fail after a year or less, 1/4-turn valves with plastic handles that crumble, etc.)

I would sort of like to keep the old faucet but I want one with a longer spout.

Thank you

 

I agree, you'd be better off replacing the whole mess.

You can get acceptable stuff at the big box stores if you know what to look for. If you have a plumbing supply place that will sell to the public near you, go there, but they are fewer and farther between these days. And even some of them are forced to carry junk for those that buy solely on price, so you still have to be careful.

Central Brass makes good laundry faucets in the style of the one you have.

Use full port ball valves for all the valves. You may want to consider a single handle washing machine disconnect while you are at it; they make it fast and easy to turn off hot and cold to the washer. Makes it a little more likely that it will get used.

Good luck!

 

Should I use arrestors? My 60-year-old house has never had any and I've not had any water hammer issues (or have I been lucky?).

Also, should I use sweat or threaded ball valves? I've used both types and not had any known issues, but I'm a klutz when it comes to sweating joints and I'm always concerned I'm going to ruin a ball valve by getting it too hot.

Thank you for your help, Paul!

 

If you've not had any water hammer issues, I wouldn't bother with the arrestors.

The problem with threaded ball valves is that you will have to sweat threaded adaptors on the pipes and more often than not, when you thread on the valve it will stop in the no man's land between "not pointing in the right direction" and "I'm afraid to tighten it any more".

Just wrap the body of the valve with a damp rag when sweating the valve. Heat the pipe first and then when the pipe's hot, apply just enough heat to the valve side of the joint to get good solder flow. Do one side at a time and let the valve cool off before sweating the other side. I've heard of people damaging the ball with too much heat, but I've not seen it myself; they are made pretty tough.

If you're really gun shy about it, you can always use compression valves or even sharkbite valves. But they are quite a bit more expensive.

 

I like your description of that "no man's land" and it's a good way to discern when to use threaded and when not to. I'll not forget that piece of wisdom.

Great advice - I appreciate your help!

 

I would also recommend MAPP gas for sweating valves. It puts the heat where you want it faster. Works really well with heavy brass fittings.

 

Instead of soldering use shark bite fittings. More expensive but a lot easier to use. Since I have started using them I very seldom pull my torch out. Love the single valve for washer. Here is a couple from HD, Lowes have them also.
Search Results for washer shutoff valves at The Home Depot

 

Hi, You may want to research how many gallons per minute the new valve puts out. If it's like new kitchen faucets that put out about 2 gallons per minute it will take forever to fill one of those sinks. Woodbutcher