Temp fix for busted nylon icemaker hose
#1
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Well the wife pulled the fridge out earlier tonight cause she dropped something behind it and in the process managed to run over the plastic ice maker hose and puncture it real good. I didn't know water could squirt out of a tiny hose so hard! I tried crimping it with a couple pairs of vice grips on it and it didn't do anything...
The supply is a saddle valve coming off a copper pipe in the basement below the kitchen, and of course there is no shutoff valve for it whatsoever. The entire supply for the house is currently shutoff.
For the long term fix, I'm going to cut the saddle section out and sweat in a copper tee with a shutoff, and probably replace the plastic line with a braided one.
The problem is that I have a 6 day business trip and my plane leaves at 9 am tomorrow morning, so I have to make a quick fix to it for now (or more likely when the orange box opens in the morning).
Can I buy something from Home Depot (or better yet, Walmart since they are 24 hours) to crimp the plastic tube with? Or somehow disconnect the saddle valve and seal up the hole in the copper? Wifey will just have to go without an ice maker while I am away!
Thanks for your help.
The supply is a saddle valve coming off a copper pipe in the basement below the kitchen, and of course there is no shutoff valve for it whatsoever. The entire supply for the house is currently shutoff.
For the long term fix, I'm going to cut the saddle section out and sweat in a copper tee with a shutoff, and probably replace the plastic line with a braided one.
The problem is that I have a 6 day business trip and my plane leaves at 9 am tomorrow morning, so I have to make a quick fix to it for now (or more likely when the orange box opens in the morning).
Can I buy something from Home Depot (or better yet, Walmart since they are 24 hours) to crimp the plastic tube with? Or somehow disconnect the saddle valve and seal up the hole in the copper? Wifey will just have to go without an ice maker while I am away!
Thanks for your help.
#2
Saddle valves are called saddle VALVES because of the part that turns and pierces the pipe. You should be able to turn it clockwise until the needle gets tight and you get it shut off. You can then turn your water back on and get a union for your supply line, which is basically just 2 compression fittings to put on the cut ends of your line. No Walmart doesn't have that in their plumbing section.
#4
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I'm a bit embarrassed that I didn't realize they actually functioned as valves, despite their name. I just went and tightened it up nice and snug. Main water supply is still off since the shutoff is in our tenant's side of the basement but I should be able to throw it back on in the morning and see if that holds it. But I have no reason to suspect it won't.
I appreciate the help guys.
Believe I will just go ahead and leave the valve shut for the next week until I can get in there and do a proper shutoff valve and tee.
Just curious though since the saddle valve is effectively getting shutoff by jamming the needle further in there--can you only do that so many times before it starts to widen the hole up too much and leak?
I appreciate the help guys.
Believe I will just go ahead and leave the valve shut for the next week until I can get in there and do a proper shutoff valve and tee.
Just curious though since the saddle valve is effectively getting shutoff by jamming the needle further in there--can you only do that so many times before it starts to widen the hole up too much and leak?
#5
No problem.... glad to help.
The biggest problem with those valves is the punctured hole gets clogged with minerals and the rubber seal leaks. I've never seen one not shutting off all the way but it is possible for the hole to get enlarged.
The biggest problem with those valves is the punctured hole gets clogged with minerals and the rubber seal leaks. I've never seen one not shutting off all the way but it is possible for the hole to get enlarged.
#6
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If you want to be extra-secure, you can get a 1/4" brass cap. Unscrew the existing poly pipe and cap the saddle valve.
But if the saddle valve is holding without dripping, there's really no need for the extra cap.
But if the saddle valve is holding without dripping, there's really no need for the extra cap.