How would you cap DW water line?

Hello all!
Removing old dishwasher, how would you cap off copper water line temporarily, if you needed time before installing new DW?

 

Follow the line back under the sink, there should be a shut off for it, no cap needed.
If it's a saddle valve, your better off replacing it with a 1/4 turn valve.
Saddle valve tend to leak and plug up, not even legal in some areas.

 

With a 1/2" brass plug and Rector T thread sealant. Sioux Chief 1/2 in. Lead-Free Brass Square-Head Plug-930-502001 - The Home Depot

 

Thanks!
Following the line back under the sink, it appears to lead to a blue spigot valve similar to what I see on the outside of my house, for the garden hose.

 

Remove the DW line from the valve adapter, it's 3/8" compression. Use two wrenches.
IF the valve doesn't shut off completely cap the compression outlet off.
Use a 3/8" compression cap with a ferrule inside (compression ring).
Also put a little pipe dope on the compression threads.



I recommend you connect the new DW with a braided flex line.

 

Thanks!
Where does this go?

 

Thanks!
The new DW comes with this 5-ft 125-PSI Stainless Steel Dishwasher Connector:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-5-f...nector/3190279

 

That's a good kit. Let us know if you need help connecting the new unit.
The important thing is try to keep the existing valve if possible.
If it leaks a little after closing, cap it off and check for leaks.
Don't use the compression cap without a ferrule inside, it will leak.

 

Thanks!
FWIW: I closed the valve and ran a "quick rinse" cycle (10 min) test...No leak at the valve. However, I did feel moisture, where copper water line connected to DW. Please keep in mind, I need old DW unhooked for extended period of time before installing new DW, during which time I don't want to keep my whole house shut off.

Copper water line connected to DW, where I felt moisture
[ATTACH=CONFIG]74454[/ATTACH]

 

When I said check for a leak at the valve, that meant with the 3/8" tubing removed from the valve.
The valve might not leak at all, but you need to be prepared in case it does. Valves fail.

- Place towels and a drip pan under the valve, then close the valve
- Open the kitchen faucet to hot and keep it open until done
- Slowly loosen the 3/8" tube nut. Water will come out.
- You should know quickly if this water is under pressure (meaning your valve has failed) or just draining out

Let the valve drain, assuming it's good.
If it drips a little after draining seal off the outlet with the compression cap and ferrule.

 

Thanks!
I haven't had a chance to check for a leak, yet but... That said, since, I don't have soldering skills, how about replacing the saddle valve with this?

 

FWIW: Until I get back to this location, here are a couple of better pics of the blue valve, I took a while back: