3/4" Union Problems
#1
3/4" Union Problems
Hi, I just moved into a home where the water heater needs an anode rod and a full port valve at the drain because I like to replace anode rods to make water heaters last a long time.
I thought soldering two 3/4" unions would be a great idea since I'd be replacing the anode rod maybe every 3 years since I have a water softener (which accelerates anode rod failure). Unions would allow me to disconnect the water heater and lay it down to do the anode job quickly.
However, BOTH unions I got at Lowes leak where the two parts mate (not the soldering).
(1) Is this a bad idea since I have never seen unions on a water heater before (tightening twists the pipes badly stressing out the solder)?
(2) Has anyone been having trouble with unions not working? I have used a few in my lifetime and they have worked every time. It's hard to believe BOTH unions spray water (not the solder part).
Any input is appreciated.
I thought soldering two 3/4" unions would be a great idea since I'd be replacing the anode rod maybe every 3 years since I have a water softener (which accelerates anode rod failure). Unions would allow me to disconnect the water heater and lay it down to do the anode job quickly.
However, BOTH unions I got at Lowes leak where the two parts mate (not the soldering).
(1) Is this a bad idea since I have never seen unions on a water heater before (tightening twists the pipes badly stressing out the solder)?
(2) Has anyone been having trouble with unions not working? I have used a few in my lifetime and they have worked every time. It's hard to believe BOTH unions spray water (not the solder part).
Any input is appreciated.
#2
You should have soldered a male adapter on the top pipes and use flexible pipe to transition to the dielectirc nipples on the water heater. If you have any movement, you could experience more leaks.
#3
I have bought foreign made pipe fittings that didn't hold water no matter what you tried. Only thing to do is try to find a supply house that sell American made fittings or at least ones from a different country then you have now.
I have always use metal flex connectors on water heaters. If your local code allows that is what I would suggest.
I have always use metal flex connectors on water heaters. If your local code allows that is what I would suggest.
#4
Soldering can potentially fry any gaskets inside the union. A male transition to a female threaded union would probably be a better choice than a soldered one. But I agree, the stainless braided hookups are the bomb.
#5
I just realized that the reason my pipes are twisting when I tighten the union is because this union doesn't have a 2nd hex side to grab to counter the torque of the tightening.
The reason I didn't get the flex hose is because when you look into the end/opening of it, it's reduced down to a 1/2" opening, not letting the full 3/4" opening of water through.
I think I'll return the unions and get the flex hose and just get fried when my wife flushed the upstairs toilet while in the shower :-)
P.S. There aren't gaskets to fry in unions ...to my knowledge they are all metal on metal.
The reason I didn't get the flex hose is because when you look into the end/opening of it, it's reduced down to a 1/2" opening, not letting the full 3/4" opening of water through.
I think I'll return the unions and get the flex hose and just get fried when my wife flushed the upstairs toilet while in the shower :-)
P.S. There aren't gaskets to fry in unions ...to my knowledge they are all metal on metal.
#6
Member
Brasscraft Procoat stainless water heater connectors are advertised as full flow:
ProCoat® Stainless Steel Water Heater Connectors
But the way to avoid getting scalded is to install a pressure balanced shower valve.
You could try a film of rectorseal on the faces of the unions. You are not supposed to need nor use pipe dope on unions, but I've found it to work in a pinch on some of the poorly machined unions. However, the flex connectors are a better solution.
ProCoat® Stainless Steel Water Heater Connectors
But the way to avoid getting scalded is to install a pressure balanced shower valve.
You could try a film of rectorseal on the faces of the unions. You are not supposed to need nor use pipe dope on unions, but I've found it to work in a pinch on some of the poorly machined unions. However, the flex connectors are a better solution.
#8
what's Teflon tfe paste? lol. No. I'll look it up.
I thought putting paste on union threads would be like putting it on a garden hose threads ...that is it's not needed to seal since a union is a perfect match where the threads are used for compression, not the actual seal.
I thought putting paste on union threads would be like putting it on a garden hose threads ...that is it's not needed to seal since a union is a perfect match where the threads are used for compression, not the actual seal.
#9
since a union is a perfect match where the threads are used for compression, not the actual seal
You can put a little paste on the seal part.... but that didn't work for me either.
#10
The reason I didn't get the flex hose is because when you look into the end/opening of it, it's reduced down to a 1/2" opening,
#12
I thought putting paste on union threads would be like putting it on a garden hose threads ...that is it's not needed to seal
Compression surfaces should seal with very little force. In your case the surfaces are so poorly ground nothing will work to correct it.
#14
Once plumbed a whole bathroom with assorted galvanized fittings made in China. Every single fitting dripped. Did it with tape, did it with dope, did it with dope and tape. Not a single fitting held tight. Had to throw away the fittings and buy American at three times the cost. All the American fittings were drip free first try.
Last edited by ray2047; 12-12-16 at 05:24 AM.
#15
The Chinese have a ways to go with making threads, imho. I suspect that they don't maintain their taps & dies as well as they ought to.
I've never had to lay a water heater down to change the anode rod though. You might look into getting an impact driver. If height is a problem there are flexible/sectional anodes available.
I've never had to lay a water heater down to change the anode rod though. You might look into getting an impact driver. If height is a problem there are flexible/sectional anodes available.
#16
Member
Before I jnstall a union I use valve grinding compound on the ball joint and oscillate them until there is good contact. When soldering, I sweat one half, tighten the two halfs and then sweat the second half. I position the water pipe going into the second half of the union such that it will push toward the union joint after sweating is complete.
#17
beel: Great idea!
Steve: Actually I returned the 2 bad unions to lowes and I told the clerk that chinese unions may not be good - and we looked at the package and they were MADE IN AMERICA!! Also note that the treads do not perform the seal itself in a union; the threads simply compress the two mated flared/balled edges together.
I still don't understand how they can make a union that has only one hex to grab/turn. If I'm turning the compression hex nut to joint the union, shouldn't I be holding the other half of the union (another hex) to stop the massive torque on the pipe?
Steve: Actually I returned the 2 bad unions to lowes and I told the clerk that chinese unions may not be good - and we looked at the package and they were MADE IN AMERICA!! Also note that the treads do not perform the seal itself in a union; the threads simply compress the two mated flared/balled edges together.
I still don't understand how they can make a union that has only one hex to grab/turn. If I'm turning the compression hex nut to joint the union, shouldn't I be holding the other half of the union (another hex) to stop the massive torque on the pipe?
#18
Also note that the treads do not perform the seal itself in a union; the threads simply compress the two mated flared/balled edges together
It's like a 1/2" compression nut and ferrule on an angle stop valve. Some quality nuts (valve bodies) turn easily and others you struggle with or need to lubricate.
I'm picky of the brands I use and sadly even some quality brands are skimping on metal and thread quality.
I saw a quality faucet the other day, the box said 'made in USA with imported parts'.
I was surprised and haven't seen that before from this particular manufacturer.
#19
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If I'm turning the compression hex nut to joint the union, shouldn't I be holding the other half of the union (another hex) to stop the massive torque on the pipe?
Just a thought!
(p.s. one time I wasn’t paying enough attention and didn’t use a second wrench and twisted a copper pipe into a pretzel, lol)