3 days of plumbing work for softener

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  #1  
Old 12-21-16, 08:28 PM
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3 days of plumbing work for softener

I appreciate all the advice a few of you offered while I worked on this project. After living in my home for 20 years, I finally decided to plumb for a water softener. So many appliances, toilets, fixtures, etc. ruined by our hard water. This isn't the prettiest work, but it doesn't leak. I started this project on Saturday morning and worked non-stop (except for sleeping, eating, etc.) until Monday evening. LOL, I wouldn't make a good plumber. I couldn't charge enough for the time it took. I had to pull the water heater, figure out what was most likely the main line coming up through the slab (with the help of this forum), contend with a leaking city main shut-off, and temperatures in the single digits and below zero (well, I was in the garage and it wasn't so bad, except when I had to go to deal with the main shut off outside). I'm sure I used too much flux and solder, probably not to code (I don't care as I don't intend on moving anytime soon). Thanks again for all the help and advice. Now, I just need to install the water softener.

FYI, my furnace/air handler is to the right of the 3 valves. The lines run up the wall and about 4 feet to the right, then down to connect to the main and a spigot.

https://softenerplumbwh4.shutterfly.com/pictures/8
 
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Old 12-22-16, 06:45 AM
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At some point your going to regret using gate valves instead of ball valves.
They tend to leak at the stem, and not shut off all the way over time.
 
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Old 12-22-16, 08:17 AM
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Yep, already dealing with leaky gate valves (I posted in this forum), but not yet at the stems. The leak is, for now, VERY small. I'll have the softener hooked up soon enough. That's something I did not ask about before installing. The valves at the bypass are easy enough to access. If/when leaking becomes a big issue, I'll replace them with ball valves.
 
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Old 12-22-16, 10:44 AM
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I have to ask... the third picture with the pipes in an H configuration... did you want to put a valve on the horizontal bypass? Or am I looking at it incorrectly?
 
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Old 12-22-16, 11:06 AM
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Well...I said a word I won't post here. Yep, need one there too. The valve to the right up top is my shut off for the entire house. The one just out of the slab no longer worked. LOL, I won't soften all the water if some of it is diverted before getting to the softener. A bit of profanity going through my head right now, LOL. How the heck did I miss that? Don't have to be a plumber to know that won't work.
 
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Old 12-22-16, 11:16 AM
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There's not a lot of wiggle room there. Is my best option to cut the vertical pipes above the highest valve on the right, take the "H" down and install my valve at the horizontal? Then I could sweat a couple of couplers back to attach the "H" back to the verticals.
 
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Old 12-22-16, 11:23 AM
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Think I'll remove the straps, make a cut in the middle of the horizontal and see how much play I have. Much easier if that work since I can shut the water off right there.
 
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Old 12-23-16, 10:25 AM
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I had a lot more room to move the pipes around than I thought. Got the ball valve installed in the horizontal...

https://softenerplumbwh4.shutterfly.com/pictures/13
 
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Old 12-24-16, 02:58 PM
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Pictures are great but at times they generate questions.

First off, good job eliminating the gate valves, I wish they would quit selling them, they are krap.

What is the curved ceiling?
 
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Old 12-24-16, 04:54 PM
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Marq1, you mean the curve going right to left above the valves? That's just the supply ductwork for my AC/Heat. Curves left then straight up through the garage ceiling. My copper lines go up behind the ductwork, then right angle to horizontal about 4 feet +/-, then back down the wall on the other side of my furnace/air handler.
 
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