Sweat joint on shower valve barely seeping (pinhole) ?

Old 01-05-17, 05:41 AM
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Sweat joint on shower valve barely seeping (pinhole) ?

On another project, while changing the cartridge on a delta shower valve I noticed that a sweat joint was damp . Checked it with tissue and verify the leak (barely seeping). It is unlike that it can accessed to re-solder it. I can see it and touch the affect piping but due to its location . I see potential heat damage to the fiberglass fiberglass surround and fire issues trying to work through the escutcheon hole) without tearing apart the plumbing wall (destroying the fiberglass surround ). Is there a chance JB Weld or or other epoxy will hold (any one better than another) ? -Thanks
Old 01-05-17, 07:03 AM
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JB Waterweld putty will work as a temporary repair... which is all you can do without opening up the wall. You will have to knead it for about 5 minutes before it will stick. Brushing the joint with a brass brush to clean the surface will help it adhere.
Old 01-05-17, 07:12 AM
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You might try using one of those pencil type torches. Bernzomatic and others make them. Supposedly they will concentrate enough heat at the point that you might be able to add solder. But, it's a crap shoot. If it don't work, you'll need to open the wall.
Old 01-06-17, 12:01 AM
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You can get a Delta remodel/renovation plate that will give you more room to do a proper repair.
Old 01-06-17, 03:06 AM
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What is the back side of the wall? Might sound like a lot of extra work, but not that big of a deal to cut an opening in the drywall, if that's what you have, and patch it once you have it properly repaired. You can buy heat shields for this type of work at your local hardware or big box.
Old 01-06-17, 06:34 AM
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The renovation plate is a good idea, but the back side access is better. I don't like to solder next to the rough in valve body because it is a big heat sink, so I always sweat the MIP/FIP to a short length of copper tubing and then sweat a coupling a few inches away from the valve.

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