Relocating bathroom sewer vent pipe question


  #1  
Old 02-11-17, 02:27 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Relocating bathroom sewer vent pipe question

I recently started working on master bathroom remodel. I removed the old drop-in shower stall (going to tile the new shower) and unfortunately the drain vent is encroaching on the area where a mortar bed will sit. Also due to the location of the pipe, the cement backer board will not sit flush on the wall of the shower. It looks like when the pipe was originally placed, the plumber hogged out a section of the double 2x12" header to somewhat accompany the 2" vent, he just didn't hog out enough to tuck the vent into the wall completely. My question is, will cutting into the header even more to allow for the pipe to fit into the wall completely dangerously affect the structural integrity of the header? I've attached some pictures below to help explain the situation. Any help would be appreciated.

Name:  2017-02-11 16.48.37.jpg
Views: 2387
Size:  35.8 KB
Name:  2017-02-11 16.48.26.jpg
Views: 2839
Size:  37.4 KB
Name:  2017-02-11 16.53.22.jpg
Views: 1523
Size:  26.0 KB
 
  #2  
Old 02-11-17, 05:05 PM
A
Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 36
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
You could either raise the floor or strap the wall where the vent is. Do not mess with your structure.
 
  #3  
Old 02-12-17, 10:49 AM
P
Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 20
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Probably more of a question for a carpenter/architect. But I would look into possibilities of re-routed the section and then find the rest of the vertical bent higher up to tie back into.
 
  #4  
Old 02-12-17, 11:50 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 29,711
Upvotes: 0
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
I'd vote for furring out just the wall of the shower. No need to do the whole wall. The outside wall of the shower will hide the fur-out.

Very crude sketch:

Name:  Untitled.png
Views: 1035
Size:  6.9 KB
 

Last edited by ray2047; 02-12-17 at 12:13 PM.
  #5  
Old 02-12-17, 06:50 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the responses, I have pretty much looked at all possibilities of re-routing and it just isn't possible due to rafters in the attic (that is was I had always planned on doing until I crawled around in the attic). I appreciate the drawing, to make sure I am understanding completely, when you speak of furring out the wall, is that like building a false wall on the existing wall to hide the vent?
 
  #6  
Old 02-12-17, 08:12 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 57
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Several comments:
1) The risk of hogging out more material out of the header would depend on what that header was supporting and how it was supported.
2) You could consider keeping the vent where it is and creating a curbing at that end of the shower that steps around the pipe.
3) What's the deal with that switch box on the wall in back of the shower area. It looks like it is set up to be a buried junction box facing down onto the joist. That's a no-no, unless it will be accessible from the other side of the wallboard.
 
  #7  
Old 02-12-17, 08:30 PM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 29,711
Upvotes: 0
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
is that like building a false wall on the existing wall to hide the vent?
Yes. It is to increase the depth of the wall so the pipe will be totally inside the wall and therefore the vent isn't in the way of the shower pan since it will be behind the wall.

Name:  2017-02-11 16.48.26.jpg
Views: 2735
Size:  42.5 KB

Name:  Untitled.png
Views: 949
Size:  42.5 KB
 

Last edited by ray2047; 02-12-17 at 09:09 PM.
  #8  
Old 02-13-17, 05:00 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I'm really not sure what the header is supporting or how it's supported therefore I've decided to leave it and try to work around it.

I also like the curb idea but this will cut into an already small (36"x36") shower.

The junction box there is a problem. When I removed the drop in shower the wire that runs there was in front of the corner stud instead of through the stud (not a joist, the pic was rotated when I uploaded it for some reason) so this would have again not allowed for backer board to go up against the wall. There is a bedroom behind that wall, so I will just cut a hole there and put an outlet or just cap the box so it's accessible.
 
  #9  
Old 02-13-17, 05:09 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Regarding the fur out, would you agree that if I went that route, I should run the wall all the way to the ceiling in the shower and tile to the ceiling on both walls of the shower? Also on the same wall the vent is in, I am placing a free standing tub (next to the shower). I was going to tile the wall around the tub and then run that same tile onto the shower walls, maybe I should consider furring out the entire wall even behind where the tub will sit so all looks cohesive. I'll have to see how much that would push stuff over. Thanks again for the help.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: