Cast Iron to ABS Plastic


Old 04-27-01, 08:16 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 82
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts

Thanks to the OldGuy for previous responses to other questions I have decided to remove my cast iron drain/vent and install ABS Plastic but this brings up other questions.
I went to Home Depot to see what options I had for attaching the ABS Plastic tubing to the old cast iron. All I could find is a cheap little rubber sleave. Is this my only option? I would like to use the existing female side of the cast iron tube to tap into with the plastic but I have no idea how to seperate it at the connection. Is it put together with lead fill? How can I seperate the cast iron at the connection and if I am able to seperate at the connection how can I seal the new union between the cast iron and the plastic?
Sponsored Links
Old 04-27-01, 04:35 PM
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
The hub (female) on the cast iron will accept what is called a gasket. Go to a plumber who sells parts and tell him you want a gasket for X inch cast iron hub pipe they have better ones generally.
That is a lead joint more that likley if it is residential cast iron. To "unlead" the joint heat it up with a torch go all around the joint. The lead will get soft take a hammer and a screw driver (you do not like) and slowly work the lead out. Keep in mind cast iron will break so be gentle.

Good Luck
Old 04-30-01, 02:47 AM
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 664
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
More specifically that gasket is called a "tyte-seal" or a "donut" in plumber slang. I usually just dig out the lead with a hammer and chisel or with a sturdy small screwdriver. I don't like using a torch on lead because the fumes make you stupid. You only have about an inch or so of lead before you get to the waxy oakum string beneath it. Be sure to clean the inside of that joint as best you can. Slide the tyte-seal on the new pipe and lubricate the outside with lubricant or vaseline then slide it into the bell of the old pipe.
Your other option is to cut the cast iron behind the bell with a tool called a snap cutter. You can rent those at a heavy equiptment yard. If you have a clean, straight piece of pipe you can use a no-hub coupling to join the two sections. A no hub is one of those flimsy rubber pieces with a stainless steel band around the outside. Oh, by the way those cheap rubber sleeves are plumbing code approved for waste pipe. Use the steel banded ones though, they are a step better.
Old 04-30-01, 07:06 AM
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Lake Murray, SC USA
Posts: 1,461
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
It might help you buy one of those rubber couplings if you ask someone for a Fernco coupling.
Old 04-30-01, 01:57 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 82
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Talking Thanks

Thank you to all that replied, I'm sure one of your suggestions will work great.
Thanks again,
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Your question will be posted in: